Discover Helsinki 2017–2018 LAYAR I NTE RACTIVE PRI NT, SE E PAGE 4 • PLEASE LEAVE THIS BOOK FOR THE NEXT GUEST

35 Welcome to the Viking world Experience the Baltic Sea, Finland, Sweden and Estonia on board Viking Line! vikingline.fi vikingline.se vikingline.ee vikingline.ru

W E LCO M E TO H E LS I N K I Helsinki is a surprising city that enchants visitors with its diverse urban culture, the proximity of nature and its friendliness. The laid-back rhythm of relaxed and compact Helsinki will take you way. Helsinki is one of Europe’s fastest growing and developing cities. It is an increasingly international place, where new districts are built right in the inner city. At the same time, the city has a new type of resource: an urban community life, which makes our city an even better place to live, to study, to visit and to be an entrepreneur. Discover Helsinki Helsinki has fascinating contrasts. There is a unique, recognisable style and atmosphere that we inhabitants can be proud of. Helsinki is full of wonderful surprises just waiting to be discovered. Our city welcomes you with open arms to enjoy its vibrant urban culture, a high level of expertise and lively start-up culture, the everpresent nature and sea and the friendliness and openness of the locals. Located between East and West, absorbing influences from both sides, Helsinki is a dynamic and future-oriented city that combines both trends and traditions in its own special way. Layers of fine architecture, functional design, a playful and often surprising food culture, an extensive range of events, both large and small, intertwine to form a fascinating capital that offers experiences in all seasons of the year. The cityscape in Helsinki harmoniously combines elements of Neoclassicism, Art Nouveau, Alvar Aalto and contemporary architecture, offering a fascinating journey through the changing styles of past centuries. If you venture beyond the city centre, you will discover many fascinating districts, each one more delightful than the next! There is plenty to see and experience in Kruununhaka, Punavuori, Kallio, Vallila and if you happen to be design savvy, Arabia in particular, because you will find Iittala & Arabia Design Centre there.  Helsinki is full of surprises. Please take a look at the brand new My Helsinki digital service myhelsinki.fi and discover your own favourite places. Have a great time in our lovely city and let Helsinki’s laid-back rhythm take you away, Marja-Leena Rinkineva Director of Economic Development The Economic Development division City of Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 2017–2018 CON T E N TS DISCOVER HELSINKI 20TH EDITION 10 The Finnish way 20 Visitor information 32 2017 – the centenary of Finland’s independence 34 Getting around Helsinki 44 Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions 60 Helsinki – Never far from water 68 Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west 74 Art treasures of the city 82 Reason to make a song and dance 86 Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic 90 Finnish design 96 Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki 112 Restaurants and dining – A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons 122 Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki 138 Bars and nightlife and no dress-codes 150 Map of Helsinki INTERACTIVE PRINT Download the app for an amazing experience that makes this book come alive! www.discoverhelsinki.fi DOWNLOAD THE FREE LAYAR APP SCAN THIS PAGE DISCOVER INTERACTIVE CONTENT Welcome to Helsinki. Discover Helsinki 2017–2018 will take you on a magical tour of this magnificent city. The editorial and photographic content takes you where you want to go, shows you how to get there and is designed to make your visit more enjoyable. Use it as your guide. An edition of 23 000 copies is published every spring. Discover Helsinki is available almost in every hotel room in the Helsinki metropolitan area and in the suites and first class cabins of cruise ships a year at a time between 15 June 2017 and 15 May 2018. >> www.discoverhelsinki.fi Published by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy Publisher Marko Lahtinen Managing Director Art Director Eveliina Aho Sales Nina Dahlin tel. +358 (0)9 6860 7530 PrePress & Printing by PunaMusta Oy Cover photos by 1. Eetu Ahanen / Visit Helsinki Media Bank 2. Lauri Rotko / Visit Helsinki Media Bank 3. Kim Ekman / Visit Finland Media Bank 4. Niklas Nabb / Musiikitalo 5. Suomi 100 6. Jussi Hellsten / Visit Finland Media Bank Although the authors and publisher have tried to make the information as accurate as possible, they accept no responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book. All contents copyright ©2017 by Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without the written permission of the publisher and copyright owner. For all advertisement enquiries and book orders please contact Naisten Kaupunki Markkinointi ja Kustannus Oy.

69 BOUTIQUE ALAIN MIKLI MIKONKATU 2 I 00100 HELSINKI MO–FRI 10–18 I SAT 10–16 ESPA EYEWEAR POHJOIS-ESPLANADI 37A I 00100 HELSINKI MO–FRI 11–19 I SAT 11–17

30 From Helsinki to medieval Tallinn up to 6 times a day! A two-hour trip on Tallink Shuttle is more than just a sea crossing. We guarantee that your sea voyage will be pleasant in every sense. Admire sea views, dine and enjoy shopping on board the most modern fast ferries. Spend an exciting day in Tallinn – head to the unique Old Town and discover the twisting cobblestone alleys, towers and many attractions. Bookings and more information tallinksilja.com/en

28 Discover the royal Stockholm and beautiful archipelago! Take the luxurious Promenade to Stockholm! The elegant white sister ships Silja Symphony and Silja Serenade offer daily departures between Helsinki and Stockholm. Travel in style and take an overnight cruise in comfortable modern cabin. The heart of the ship, lively Promenade, is like a small city itself – the numerous trendy shops and restaurants on board offer something for every taste! Helsinki ticket office: Erottajankatu 19

84 Newbie City, Aleksanterinkatu 21 Newbie Esplanad, Pohjoisesplanadi 29

75 Ring Of The Year 2 016 Form is temporary, class is permanent 0,10 C r e a t e Yo u r o w n d e s i g n a t w w w. o j l . f i TW/VS H E L S I N K I , S T O C K M A N N 7 T H F L O O R 0,30 CT TW/VS 3 EX GIA +0,175 TCT +358 W W W.OJ L . F I 9 1213 866

WE LCO M E T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N The Finnish way Congratulations! You have chosen to visit Finland, the safest and most eco-friendly country in the world. Finland is a nation that loves silence but has some quirky festivals and curious habits. YOUR GUIDEBOOK may already have told you all the serious stuff Finns are proud of. Our nature is pure, we have thousands of lakes and wonderfully delicious wild berries. The books are also always happy to tell you about the nation’s high-tech achievements with Nokia, Linux and the likes. Then we have the superb education system – ranked the best in the world – and excellent free health care. Finland is the world’s least corrupt country, the country with the freest press and comes first in the international prosperity index. What’s more, the nation is celebrating the 100th anniversary of independence in 2017. To make the nation even prouder, Finland has been named the world’s safest country for holidaymakers to visit. Yes, it is a good country to live in and to visit. But where is all the fun, you might ask, where’s the adventure? All the things listed above are quite solemn, and may make one feel that Finland is a bit, well, bland or boring. Fortunately enough there is more to our country. Actually, Finland has been ranked by major international media as one of the best destinations to visit in 2017. Enjoy over 400 fruit trees at the Malminkartano Fruticetum, the city’s fruit tree garden. >>> JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK 10 Discover Helsinki

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WE LCO M E Traditionally sauna has been a place for silence, and Finns are experts in the field. A land of one million saunas Tip! Helsinki Sauna Day is the day to visit one of Finland’s one million saunas. You could start your adventure into the other side of Finland by visiting a sauna. It is something you have perhaps heard about, as sauna is the only Finnish word to have entered the world vocabulary. With Santa Claus it is one of the rare Finnish phenomenon to have spread around the world. Sauna is an institution and an important part of Finnish culture, tradition and everyday practises. The age-old tradition still has an important role in the lives of most of the Finns, who bathe there once a week or even more often. There are approximately one million saunas in Finland – one for every 5 inhabitants – and you can really see it: there is one in every fitness centre, hotel and public swimming pool. There are even bars and restaurants with saunas. A popular but sadly untrue saying goes that there are more saunas than cars in Finland! There is now even an event called Helsinki Sauna Day (www.helsinkisaunaday.fi) that opens the doors to the city’s saunas for everyone willing to visit them. Traditionally sauna has been a place for silence, and Finns are experts in the field. We have a high tolerance for silence – you can witness this in any form of public transportation or any similar gathering place. Finns do not generally or stereotypically have a great need for small talk. Do not be put out by this, because nearly everybody speaks good English and the overall willingness to help tourists is great. A Finnish sauna is a heated room where naked people gather on wooden benches to enjoy the warmth of 70 to 150 degrees Celsius. In one corner of the room, there is a stove that generates the heat. Cold water is thrown for steam on the hot stones of the stove. An important part of Finnish culture for thousands of years, sauna keeps finding new ways of keeping itself alive in spite of urbanisation. It is not only a place to wash yourself or to relax, it is also a meeting place for friends, colleagues or political decision-makers. There is now even a sauna society in the Finnish embassy in Washington D.C., introducing high-temperature lobbying to the powers behind the scenes of Washington. In winter, the sauna experience is heightened by a roll in the snow or a dip in a hole in the ice. Ice swimming is popular in Finland, and there is also an ice swimming society, and ice-swimming holes are maintained by other organisations, as well, even in the Helsinki area. Try it out for yourself at the centrally located Kulttuurisauna (Hakaniemenranta 17). The minimalistic and modern sauna can offer you a zen-like experience. Helsinki Sauna Day opens the city’s sauna doors to everybody. >>> EETU AHANEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK 12 Discover Helsinki

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W E LCO M E The latest addition to the city’s public saunas is a newcomer called Löyly (Hernesaarenranta 4). Run by two Finnish celebrities, Löyly has three saunas and a restaurant right by the seaside. The amazing wooden building has attracted a lot of media attention around the world. As sauna is one of the strongest symbols of being Finnish, Finland’s centenary celebrations include a sauna festival. The Finnish Sauna Festival brings 40 different saunas to the city centre on June 8th–11th. Championship into World Championship. The both sports have their home in Kainuu in northern Finland. If you are interested in winter sports, maybe you’d like to visit the Yukigassen Snowball Fighting Competition? It is no horseplay but a serious sport with rules and referees. You have still time to prepare for the next Summer European Championship taking place in Kemijärvi, northern Finland, in July. One can be wrong, but sometimes it seems like the farther up north you go, the crazier the events? To par ty or not to par ty? Tango, karaoke and lots of garlic If visiting a sauna left you cold or didn’t give you enough insight into Finnish mentality, perhaps you should witness Finnish holidays or festivals. The increased amount of light in spring makes the nation come out of its deep thaw. The most important holiday in spring is the two-day carnival-like celebration of May Day (in Finnish vappu). Especially May Day eve is celebrated with boisterous drinking and funny costumes. People have picnics in parks, drink sparkling wine and eat salty fish. The nation, in other times seemingly introverted and silent, shows an exuberant side of itself. While the overtly social May Day carnival fills the streets and parks of the city, the Finnish midsummer celebration makes Helsinki feel like a ghost town. Now it is time to go to the countryside and to burn bonfires at lakeside or by the sea. There are approximately half a million summer cottages in Finland (nearly one for every 10 citizens), and each and every one of them is in use in Midsummer. Again, it is the eve that has the bigger role in the celebrations. A typical Midsummer’s Eve includes a sauna bath, swimming, grilling and having a few drinks. Wife-carrying and mobile-throwing Finland is home to some of the most eccentric festivals in the world. What’s more, a number of them have world championships status. Take, for example, the Wife Carrying World Championship taking place now for the 21st time in Sonkajärvi in July. Today it is a two-day event with a team competition besides the main wife carrying championship. The rules are simple: the fastest man carrying his wife on his back is the winner, plus there are special prizes for the most entertaining couple, the best costume and the strongest carrier. Believe or not, Finland has great aspirations in football. In swamp football and snow football. The origins of swamp football are a bit obscure, but if the Finns are asked, it is a Finnish invention. At least the first Championship were played in Finland. It’s the same story with snow football – from a humble tournament into European 14 Discover Helsinki And then there is the Finn’s love for the tango. Tango? The hot, sensual and passionate dance usually associated with Latin America? Not exactly what comes to mind when you are thinking about a cold northern country. Actually, the Finnish tango is a melancholy cousin in the tango family, with mournful lyrics and minor keys to match. You can see (and hear) the tango phenomenon for yourself at the Seinäjoki Tango Festival, the largest annual Finnish summer festival. The event gathers some 130,000 tango fans every year to witness the election of the new Tango Queen and Tango King and to have a tango on the streets. Sadly enough, all the festivals and happenings listed above take place a good distance away from Helsinki and thus are not available for all visitors. Happily enough for those eager to study Finnish mentality, there are a couple of great places to go Finn-watching in the Helsinki area. You could try one the nation’s favourite pastimes, karaoke, at Karaoke Bar Pataässä (Snellmaninkatu 13). The bar is one of the most famous karaoke restaurants in Finland. The legendary bar offers you karaoke fever every night of the week. Another popular choice is the centrally located and very busy Erottaja Bar (Erottajankatu 15–17). The bar offers over 28,000 songs to choose from. If you want to sing, make sure you are there early enough, because the place is often packed. After the karaoke, you may feel a bit peckish. Jaskan grilli (Dagmarinkatu) is highly recommended, with local celebrities, politicians and the hoi polloi alike standing in line for a greasy, extra garlicky snack in the middle of the night. If you are lucky and original enough you can get an item on the menu named after you; there are quite a few named after local politicians and other frequenters to the place. The place isn’t any old hot dog stand, but has become legendary during the years. It has even earned an article in the New York Times! Go ahead and visit it – you might even learn something more about Finland. •••

47 Discover Helsinki 15

Art belongs to everyone! The Helsinki Festival is the biggest multi-arts festival in Finland and is held each year in AugustSeptember. The festival aims to offer unique art experiences to a broad audience with a programme that includes the performing arts, concerts, visual art and city events. The heart of the festival is the Huvila Festival Tent, which is erected each year on the Tokoinranta shoreline. The programme at the Huvila Festival Tent features world music, pop and jazz. Another popular event during the Helsinki Festival is Night of the Arts, which will be held on 24 August 2017. Festival Highlights in 2017 William Bell, legendary soul man at the Huvila Festival Tent, 23 August (pictured here) Lucinda Williams, Grammy Award-winning folk and country artist at the Huvila Festival Tent, 28 August Finnish Radio Symphony Orchestra and the Film Concert Finlandia, screening of the restored film Finlandia (1922) with music by Sibelius and other contemporaries at the Helsinki Music Centre, 1 September Julian Rosefeldt’s Manifesto, a multi-screen film installation starring Cate Blanchett in all roles at Kunsthalle Helsinki, from 18 August Royal Stockholm Philharmonic Orchestra with world-renowned soprano Reneé Fleming at the Helsinki Music Centre, 2 September Night of Philosophy, a night of art, performances and philosophical talks at Kiasma, 1 September Peeping Tom: Moeder, Belgian dance theatre at the Finnish National Opera, 30 August–1 September Helsinki Festival, 17 August – 3 September 2017 www.helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi City of Events F inland is celebrating its 100th anniversary of independence in 2017. The centenary means even more events in Helsinki this year. Full details can be found online: suomifinland100.fi hel.fi/suomi100 2017 11–12 June: Helsinki Day Helsinki celebrates its birthday with an impressive programme of free events. This year the birthday celebrations will be transformed into a city festival taking place over two days. helsinkipaiva.fi 23 June: Midsummer Eve at Seurasaari Experience the traditional Finnish Midsummer Eve celebrations with dancing and bonfires on the recreational island of Seurasaari. seurasaarenjuhannusvalkeat.fi June–July: Helsinki Pride Helsinki Pride is a human rights event and city festival that promotes diversity and openness. helsinkipride.fi 30 June – 2 July: Tuska Open Air Metal Festival Tuska presents some of the biggest heavy metal bands from Finland and abroad. tuska-festival.fi 10–15 July: Helsinki Cup – International Youth Soccer Tournament Boys and girls soccer teams from around the world gather in Helsinki to compete and enjoy everything that the sport has to offer. helsinkicup.fi 17–19 July: Tall Ships Races The 2017 Tall Ships Races will call on Hietalahti in Helsinki in July as the ships sail from Kotka to Turku. 11–13 August: Flow Festival The historic power plant milieu at Suvilahti offers a unique setting for enjoying urban culture, the visual arts, quality services, and a fun and lively atmosphere. flowfestival.com 31 August – 7 September: Qualifying rounds of FIBA EuroBasket 2017 fiba.com/eurobasket/2017/qualifiers 7–17 September: Helsinki Design Week Helsinki Design Week is perfect for fans of design, fashion and architecture. The programme includes the Design Market, Open House Helsinki and Pecha Kucha Night. helsinkidesignweek.com 14–24 September: Love & Anarchy Film Festival The Helsinki International Film Festival presents inventive, controversial and visually stunning new films. hiff.fi

25 September – 1 October: Lähiöfest2017 Celebrate our neighbourhoods! Lähiöfest2017 takes place in ten Helsinki neighbourhoods and highlights the issue of their importance to the city. suomifinland100.fi October: Herring Market The oldest traditional event in Helsinki has been held since 1743. stadinsilakkamarkkinat.fi October: Carnival of Light at the Linnanmäki Amusement Park Enjoy the lights at the amusement park, where some of Finland’s most brilliant performers take to the stage. linnanmaki.fi 31 December: New Year’s Eve celebrations Tens of thousands of people gather to celebrate and ring in the New Year at midnight. The festivities culminate in brilliant fireworks, after which the partying continues throughout the night all around town. 2018 6–10 January: Lux Helsinki This event offers inspiring light artworks and a festival atmosphere at the darkest time of the year. luxhelsinki.fi 27 January–3 February: SibaFest Festival Sibafest is the flagship of the Sibelius Academy concert events. sibafest.fi 10 March: Helsinki Sauna Day Sauna Day opens the doors to private saunas for everyone to enjoy. helsinkisaunaday.fi 30 March–2 April: Easter Festivities Via Crucis play travels through the city centre. Easter bonfires are lit on Seurasaari Island. viacrucis.helsinginseurakunnat.fi seurasaarisaatio.fi 30 April–1 May: May Day Festivities On the eve of May Day, students gather at the Market Square to wash the statue of Havis Amanda and place a student cap on her head. The following morning everyone gathers in Kaivopuisto Park for a picnic and sparkling wine. Parades are also held around town. May: World Village Festival This free-of-charge event offers a wide range of art and activities for the entire family, including music, dance, theatre, debates, literature and exotic food. maailmakylassa.fi/ english Christmas in Helsinki The Christmas season in Helsinki begins with the opening of the Christmas Street along Aleksanterinkatu, when the Christmas lights are turned on already at the end of November. The city’s streets and courtyards are abuzz as Christmas markets attract shoppers and visitors. The unique atmosphere of the Finnish Christmas can also be experienced at numerous concerts and carol singing events. Helsinki Christmas Market is packed with stalls selling traditional gifts, from woollen socks to candles, as well as more contemporary presents, like textiles and jewellery. There is also a café and restaurant where you can warm up your hands with a hot mug of glögg or cocoa while enjoying delicious Christmas treats. Kids will also love the traditional carousel. tuomaanmarkkinat.fi The Women’s Christmas Fair sells hand-knit and embroidered Christmas decorations, pottery, jewellery, candles, leather and wood products and much more – all hand-made in Finland by Finnish women. naistenjoulumessut.fi Kaapelin joulu is a merry Christmas event that is held at Kaapelitehdas and offers a great selection of quality design products and handicrafts by over 150 Finnish companies, as well as a wide range of workshops and events for the whole family to enjoy. kaapelinjoulu.fi © Visit Helsinki 3/2017. The publisher is not responsible for possible changes.

© Jussi Hellsten Суоменлинна – это один из семи объектов в Финляндии, внесенных в перечень объектов мирового культурного наследия ЮНЕСКО. В Суоменлинне есть что ощутить в любом возрасте: крепостные стены, пушки, туннели, музеи, рестораны. Остров Валлисаари известен своей красивой нетронутой природой, уникальной флорой, захватывающими видами, и историческими строениями. Экскурсии с гидом: sveaborg@suomenlinnatours.com; Suomenlinnatours.com; Suomenlinna.fi Парк аттракционов Линнанмяки Самый популярный в Финляндии парк аттракционов, где самый обширный в Севеной Европе выбор аттракционов. Крики восторга и запах сахарной ваты – это часть летнего времяпровождения любителей высоких скоростей. Linnanmaki.fi © Pekka Keränen © Eetu Ahanen ЧЕМ ЗАНЯТЬСЯ В ХЕЛЬСИНКИ В 2017–2018 Общественные сауны в Хельсинки На родине жаркого пара количество саун уже давно оставило позади количество автомобилей, перевалив за отметку 3,2 млн. при населении в 5,5 млн. человек. Сауны на крышах, в подвалах, бассейнах, квартирах, яхтах, школах, автобусах и прицепах - полёт фантазии жителей Финляндии поистине безграничен. Мы расскажем о двух наиболее интересных, новых общественных саунах Хельсинки, где и пар будет жарким, и компания тёплой. Дизайн-сауна Löyly Дизайн-сауна Löyly открыла свои двери весной 2016 года, расположившись в центре города на южной оконечности полуострова Хельсинки. В современном комплексе разместится ресторан финской кухни, с обширной террасы которого приятно наслаждаться не только едой, но и потрясающими морскими пейзажами. Löyly уже стал настоящей дизайнерской достопримечательностью и ярким образцом современного деревянного зодчества. Loylyhelsinki.fi Морской бассейн и спа-комплекс Allas Морской бассейн Allas - это новая концепция спа, вдохновленная историческим наследием здравниц Балтийского побережья. Комплекс открылся в 2016 году в двух шагах от Торговой площади Хельсинки. Купание, сауна, культурный досуг, развлечения и ресторан с отличной едой ждут посетителей круглый год. Allasseapool.fi Информационный центр Хельсинки • Pohjoisesplanadi 19, 00100 Хельсинки • Тел.: +358 (0)9 3101 3300 • Myhelsinki.fi

ОСНОВНЫЕ МЕРОПРИЯТИЯ В ХЕЛЬСИНКИ В 2017–2018 ГОДУ 2017 год будет отмечен общегосударственными празднествами по случаю столетия независимости Финляндской Республики. Тема юбилейного года – «Мы вместе» (Yhdessä). Более точную информацию о программе мероприятий можно получить по адресу: suomifinland100.fi 11.–12.6. День города В свой день рождения Хельсинки очаровывает как горожан, так и гостей города. Это настоящий городской праздник, расцвеченный весёлыми мероприятиями для всех возрастов. helsinkipaiva.fi 30.6.–2.7. Музыкальный фестиваль Tuska Tuska - cамый крупный в Северных странах фестиваль тяжелого металла. На фестивале выступят известные исполнители как из Финляндии, так и мировые звезды хеви-метал. tuska-festival.fi 10.–15.7. Молодёжный футбольный турнир Helsinki Cup Helsinki Cup – один из крупнейших европейских молодёжных футбольных турниров, в котором участвуют сотни команд со всего мира. Июльское футбольное зрелище заполнит улицы столицы тысячами молодых игроков и болельщиков. helsinkicup.fi 11.–13.8. Фестиваль Flow Музыкально-культурное столичное мероприятие Flow Festival наводнит район Сувилахти интереснейшими финскими и иностранными исполнителями и произведениями визуального искусства. flowfestival.com 18.8.–3.9. Хельсинкский фестиваль Хельсинкский фестиваль – это крупнейший в Финляндии фестиваль искусств, предлагает сценические представления от классического театра до перформанса современного танца, мероприятия от выставок до кинопоказов и детских праздников. helsinginjuhlaviikot.fi 31.8.–17.9. Чемпионат Европы по баскетболу 2017 года Матчи предварительного раунда одной из подгрупп Чемпионата Европы по баскетболу 2017 года. Наряду с Финляндией игры будут проходить в Израиле, Румынии и Турции. fiba.com/eurobasket/2017/qualifiers 7.–17.9. Helsinki Design Week Helsinki Design Week – это настоящий праздник для любителей дизайна, моды и архитектуры. Уже традиционными стали такие мероприятия, как Design Market, Open House Helsinki и Pecha Kucha Night. helsinkidesignweek.com 1.–7.10. Столичная рыбная ярмарка Столичная ярмарка салаки (Silakkamarkkinat) – это старейшее традиционное событие, проходящее в Хельсинки с 1743 года. Вам предложат морские деликатесы, а также маринованную салаку под разнообразными соусами с многочисленных прилавков и рыболовных судов. stadinsilakkamarkkinat.fi 12.–22.10. Карнавал света Последняя неделя сезона парка аттракционов Линнанмяки превращает его в настоящее море огней. Октябрьский карнавал света зажигает тысячи разноцветных фонариков и предлагает как большим, так и маленьким посетителям разнообразные мероприятия. linnanmaki.fi 30.11.–1.12. Slush Slush – это мероприятие для стартапов и технологических компаний, помогающее молодому бизнесу установить контакты с влиятельными международными фирмами, инвесторами и СМИ. slush.org 2.–22.12. Рождественские ярмарки Давней рождественской традицией является открытие базаров, в том числе и рождественской ярмарки (Ярмарки Туомаса, Tuomaan markkinat) на Сенатской площади, Женской рождественской ярмарки в Wanha Satama и в Kaapelitehdas мероприятия Kaapelin Joulu. tuomaanmarkkinat.fi naistenjoulumessut.fi kaapelinjoulu.fi 31.12 Новогодняя ночь Традиция праздничной встречи Нового года зародилась в Хельсинки в 1932 году. В эту ночь десятки тысяч людей заполняют улицы столицы в радостном ожидании полуночи. Программа включает как музыкальные выступления, так и традиционные приветствия, поздравления и фейерверк. 5.–9.1. Фестиваль света Lux Helsinki Фестиваль света Lux Helsinki станет незабываемым впечатлением для всех органов чувств в самое тёмное время года. Бесплатный общегородской фестиваль расцветит улицы яркими огнями зрелищных световых произведений и инсталляций. luxhelsinki.fi Март: Хельсинкский день саун – Helsinki Sauna Day В городе Хельсинки очень много скрытых от постороннего глаза саун, которые используются не так часто. Однако, в один прекрасный мартовский день всё изменится: в день саун в Хельсинки свои двери откроют все сауны города – как частные, так и корпоративные, – и в них смогут попариться все желающие. helsinkisaunaday.fi

I N FO RMATION A view over Helsinki. >>> T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Visitor information Информация для гостей города Business Hours Shop opening hours were deregulated in 2016 and shop owners are allowed to set their opening hours freely. However, department stores and many chain stores are normally open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. on Saturdays, and from noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Many stores close at 6 p.m. on the days before public holidays. On Finnish public holidays, many stores are closed. However some food stores located under Helsinki Central Railway Station and at the Kamppi bus terminal will keep their doors open. Post offices are open from 9 a.m. to 6 or 8 p.m. on weekdays. Open-air markets begin trading at 6.30 a.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and close at 4 or 6 p.m. The Helsinki Market Square stays open until 4 p.m. on weekdays and Saturdays, and it is also open on summer Sundays. Р а бо чи е ча с ы Рабочие часы магазинов были пересмотрены в 2016 году, и теперь их владельцы имеют право свободно регулировать график работы. Как бы там ни было, универмаги и торговые сети обычно работают с 9 утра и до 9 вечера с понедельника по пятницу, с 9 утра и до 6 вечера по субботам, а также с 12 дня и до 6 вечера по воскресеньям. Накануне официальных выходных многие магазины закрываются уже в 6 вечера, а в сами праздничные дни многие из них не работают вообще. Исключением являются продуктовые супермаркеты, расположенные под Центральным ж/д вокзалом, а также на автовокзале Камппи. Почта работает с 9 утра до 6 или 8 вечера по будням. Уличные рынки открыты по будням и субботам с 6.30 до 4 или 6 вечера. Торговая площадь Хельсинки, в свою очередь, работает до 4 дня с понедельника по субботу, а летом также и по воскресеньям. Climate Helsinki has four distinct seasons. The light-drenched, warm summer contrasts sharply with the dark, cold winter. The main tourist season extends from May to September. You can count on plenty of light, but the weather can vary from torrential rain to long heat waves. Be prepared for anything! In summer, the temperature is from +15 to +25 °C, even to +30 °C. However, rain and northerly winds can cause the temperature to drop suddenly. It is usually frosty in winter, but there are often temperate days. 20 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 21

I N FO RMATION You can order a tram ticket by SMS to your mobile phone. JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK The proximity of the sea makes Helsinki a humid city. This should be taken into account particularly in the spring, when the sea is cold and chilly wind can cause nasty colds. Климат В Хельсинки отчетливо выражены четыре времени года. Солнечное теплое лето резко контрастирует с холодной зимой, когда световой день очень короток. Туристический сезон в основном длится с мая по сентябрь. Гости города могут рассчитывать на большое количество солнечных дней, но продолжительные жаркие периоды могут сменяться проливными дождями. Будьте готовы ко всему! Летом температура варьируется от +15 до +25 °C, поднимаясь иногда до +30 °C. Однако во время дождя и при 22 Discover Helsinki северном ветре она может резко упасть. Зима обычно морозная, но часто температура бывает вполне комфортной. Из-за близости моря климат в Хельсинки влажный. Об этом следует помнить, прежде всего, весной, когда с холодного моря дует пронизывающий ветер и есть риск основательно промерзнуть. Currency Finland is one of the European Union countries using the euro. Notes are issued in the following denominations: 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5 euros. The coins are 2 and 1 euros, and 50, 20, 10 and 5 cents. You are able to exchange your currency into euros at any bank or bureau de change.

Валюта Финляндия принадлежит к числу стран Европейского Союза, которые ввели у себя единую валюту – евро. Существуют банкноты достоинством в 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10 и 5 евро, а также монеты достоинством в 2 и 1 евро, 50, 20, 10 и 5 центов. Евро можно купить в любом банке или обменном пункте. 22 Friendly medical care for your smallest and dearest Customs Help desk and appointments by phone 0600 550 501 (+358 600 550 501 from abroad) www.pikkujatti.fi Usually only random customs checks take place among travellers landing in Finland, particularly if your journey commenced in another European Union member state. Please note that strictly defined restrictions apply to the import of alcohol and cigarettes. Details are available on ferries and aeroplanes. Там ожня E m e rg e n c y Travellers are advised to take out comprehensive travel insurance. This will allow the quickest and most appropriate treatment in private clinics, which are otherwise prohibitively expensive. For general emergencies, phone 112. Medical services in Helsinki are efficient, but the options and waiting times vary considerably. For serious injuries and other medical emergencies, phone the Helsinki University Central Hospital (HYKS, tel. 09 4711), which will direct you to the appropriate hospital. In the event of less urgent medical problems, contact the nearest medical centre (terveysasema). Each visit costs EUR 16.40. Private doctors are listed in the Yellow Pages under Lääkärikeskuksia. For example Pikkujätti is a Medical Centre for children and youth. 24-hour dental emergency care is provided by Stardent (tel. 0600 065 000, Mannerheimintie 62 and Vilhovuorenkatu 3). Куд а об ращатьс я в чр езв ы ча й н ы х си т уа ц и ях Рекомендуем приобретать полную страховку для выезжающих за рубеж. Это даст возможность оперативно получить надлежащее лечение в частных клиниках: в других случаях его стоимость будет запредельно высока. Единый номер телефона экстренных служб — 112. The call fee is 0,19 eur/min + fixed network line fee or mobile phone fee. Прибывающие в Финляндию, особенно из других стран Европейского Союза, редко подвергаются выборочному таможенному досмотру. Следует обратить внимание на ограничения, касающиеся ввоза алкоголя и сигарет. Подробности можно узнать на пароме или в самолете. Medical centre for children and youth HYVINKÄÄ • ITÄKESKUS • JÄRVENPÄÄ KAMPPI • MYYRMÄKI • TAPIO LA

I N FO RMATION Finland is a world leader in Internet access. В Хельсинки вам окажут эффективную медицинскую помощь, однако набор услуг и время ожидания могут сильно различаться. При получении серьезной травмы и в других чрезвычайных ситуациях медицинского характера звоните в Центральную клинику Хельсинкского университета (HYKS, тел. 09 4711), где вас направят в нужную больницу. При менее срочных проблемах обращайтесь в ближайший медицинский центр (terveysasema). Каждое обращение обойдется вам в 16,40 евро. Список частнопрактикующих врачей есть в “Желтых страницах” (раздел Lääkärikeskuksia). Круглосуточная стоматологическая помощь оказывается в клиниках Royal Dent (тел. 0440 111 422, Mannerheimintie, 47 C 1) и Stardent (тел. 0600 065 000, Mannerheimintie, 62 и Vilhovuorenkatu, 3). Grocery Stores You can buy groceries daily until 10 p.m. or midnight in the Asematunneli underground arcade at the central railway station or at the Kamppi bus terminal. Some of the supermarkets stay open for 24 hours a day. Discount shops such as Alepa generally have lower prices. Big chains also offer special discounts on selected items from time to time. For the widest choice, try major department stores such as Stockmann or Sokos. Продуктовые магазины Продукты питания можно приобрести ежедневно до 10 вечера или полуночи в подземном комплексе Asematunneli Центрального ж/д вокзала, а также рядом с автобусным терминалом Камппи. Некоторые супермаркеты работают круглосуточно. В дисконтных магазинах, таких как Alepa, продукты обычно продаются по более низким ценам. Время от времени большие торговые сети также предлагают скидки на те или иные виды продукции. Если же вас интересует широкий выбор, то стоит заглянуть в крупные торговые дома, такие как Stockmann и Sokos. 24 Discover Helsinki Helsinki Card Admission to all the main sights, free travel on public transportation and much else is included in the price of this “smart card” for discerning tourists. Adults: 46 euros (1 day), 56 euros (2 days), 66 euros (3 days). It is sold by the Helsinki Tourist Information Office, most hotels, Stockmann department store and some newspaper kiosks (R-kioski) in the city centre. Ка р т а гос т я Хе л ь с и н к и ( He l s i n k i Ca rd ) Самые предусмотрительные туристы могут приобрести эту смарт-карту. Она предоставляет право посещения всех основных достопримечательностей и бесплатного проезда на общественном транспорте, а также дает многие другие возможности. Стоимость карты для взрослых: 46 евро(1 день), 56 евро (2 дня), 66 евро (3 дня). Карта продается в Информационном туристическом офисе Хельсинки, во многих отелях, в универмаге «Стокманн» и в некоторых газетных киосках (R-kioski) в центре города. Internet Finland is a world leader in Internet access. Many places, including public libraries, many cafés and shopping centres allow you to surf the Net free of charge. There are also two free wireless connections, Helsinki City Open WLAN and NextMesh Wi-Fi. The safe and secure WLAN connections do not require signing in. Ин т е р н е т Финляндия является мировым лидером в области интернетдоступа. Бесплатный доступ в Интернет имеется во многих местах, в том числе в общественных библиотеках, кафе и торговых центрах. Есть также две бесплатные сети, Helsinki City Open WLAN и NextMesh Wi-Fi. Надежные и безопасные WLAN-соединения не требуют авторизации.

Language English is the most commonly used language for international communication. Finland is officially a bilingual country, with 6% of the population speaking Swedish. However, a number of Finns also speak German and French. The Finnish language is reputed to be extremely difficult. Indeed, as a non-Indo-European language, it does present a challenge to new learners. However, Finns will be pleased if you can master even just a couple of words. Have a go and make someone smile! Язык Английский – наиболее распространенный язык международного общения. В Финляндии два государственных языка: финский и шведский, для 6% населения родной язык - шведский. Некоторые финны также говорят по-немецки и по-французски. Финский язык считается очень непростым: он не относится к индоевропейским языкам, и начинающим изучать его приходится трудно. Но любому финну будет приятно, если вы запомните хотя бы несколько финских слов. Попробуйте обрадовать кого-нибудь! Pharmacies Apteekki is the Finnish word for pharmacy. There are more than one hundred pharmacies in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The pharmacy located at Mannerheimintie 5 is open daily from 7 a.m. to midnight. There is a 24-hour pharmacy further north at Mannerheimintie 96. Аптеки По-фински “аптека” будет Apteekki. В столичном регионе насчитывается более ста аптек. Аптека на Mannerheimintie, 5 открыта ежедневно с 7.00 до полуночи. Севернее, на Mannerheimintie, 96, находится круглосуточная аптека. Police To contact the police (poliisi), phone 112. There is a lost-property office at Pasilanraitio 13 (tel. +358 295 417 912). The central police station is also located at Pasilanraitio 13 (tel. 0295 417 922). Полиция Для вызова полиции (poliisi) наберите 112. Бюро находок располагается по адресу: Pasilanraitio, 13 (тел. 0295 417 912). Центральное отделение полиции находится на Pasilanraitio, 13 (тел. 0295 417 922). 31

I N FO RM AT I ON The quality of tap water in Finland is good, and it is safe to drink.. Po s t O f f i c e s There are many post offices in the city centre. The main post office and the poste restante are located in the large yellow Postitalo building between the central railway station and the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma at Elielinaukio 2 F (tel. 0200 71 000). The place is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Friday, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Saturdays and noon to 4 p.m. on Sundays. Почтовые отделения В центре города много почтовых отделений. Главный почтамт и отделение для корреспонденции до востребования находятся в большом желтом здании Postitalo, расположенном между Центральным железнодорожным вокзалом и Музеем современного искусства Киасма на Elielinaukio, 2 F (тел. 0200 71 000). Часы работы — с 8.00 до 20.00 (понедельник — пятница), с 10.00 до 16.00 (суббота) и с 12.00 до 16.00 (воскресенье). price of goods bought in Finland. VAT on books, food and certain other products is lower, which also reduces the size of the rebate for these goods. VAT refunds cannot be obtained for products costing less than 40 euros. Always ask before making your purchase! Shops participating in the VAT refund scheme are marked with stickers bearing the slogan “TAX FREE FOR TOURISTS”. You will be given a special receipt. To claim your refund, you must present this receipt at the refund window at the customs post when leaving the country. Возврат налога на добавленную стоимость You can find free restrooms at Sofiankatu 2, Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52) and Forum shopping centre (Mannerheimintie 14–20, ground floor). There are automatic toilets on several locations, for example in Esplanade Park and in Sibelius Park. The price is EUR 0.50. В Финляндии налог на добавленную стоимость довольно высок – 24 %. Покидая страну, туристы из стран, не входящих в Европейский Союз, могут вернуть 10–17 % от стоимости покупок, сделанных ими в Финляндии. Ставка НДС на книги, продовольственные и некоторые другие товары ниже указанной цифры, соответственно, и возвращаемая сумма в этом случае будет меньше. Возврат НДС не производится при стоимости товара менее 40 евро. Перед покупкой необходимо выяснить, производится ли возврат НДС для товаров из данного магазина. В таких магазинах имеется объявление: TAX FREE FOR TOURISTS. При покупке вам выдадут квитанцию. При выезде из страны необходимо предъявить ее в окно возврата НДС на таможне. Общественные туалеты S h o e re p a i r s Pu b l i c t o i l e t s Бесплатные туалеты находятся на ул.Sofiankatu 2, в универмаге Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu, 52) и торговом центре Forum (Mannerheimintie, 14–20, первый этаж). В некоторых местах поставлены автоматические туалеты, например, в парке на Эспланаде и в парке Сибелиуса. Тариф — 0,50 евро. S a l e s Ta x Re f u n d s In Finland, VAT is usually charged at the comparatively high rate of 24%. Upon leaving the country, tourists from countries outside the European Union can obtain a refund of 10–17% of the purchase 26 Discover Helsinki If you have broken a heel or your shoes need new heel tips or some urgent stitching, you can get your shoes repaired at the Forum and Kamppi shopping malls or at the Helsinki Main Railway Station. П о ч и н ка о бу в и Если вам нужно починить сломавшийся каблук, поставить набойку или заплатку, вы найдете обувные мастерские в торговых центрах Forum и Kamppi, а также на Центральном железнодорожном вокзале.

Ta p Wa t e r The quality of tap water in Finland is good, and it is safe to drink. Во допроводная в о д а Водопроводная вода в Финляндии хорошего качества и пригодна для питья. Ta xe s A n d Ti p p i n g Price tags and prices displayed include all taxes. International plane tickets represent the only exception: so-called airport taxes are usually added to the price of the ticket. Even the prices on restaurant menus already include the service charge. Tips are not expected or required. Should you, however, wish to tip your waiter, the gesture will of course be appreciated! There is no need to tip taxi drivers, but you can naturally tip them for good service. Налоги и чаевы е Объявленные цены включают в себя все налоги. Единственное исключение – билеты на международные авиарейсы: к их цене обычно прибавляется так называемый аэропортовый сбор. В настоящее время даже цены в меню ресторанов включают в себя плату за обслуживание: чаевых никто не ждет и не требует. Если вы, однако, решите отблагодарить официанта, ваш жест будет оценен должным образом. Таксисты также не требуют чаевых, но, разумеется, их можно дать в качестве благодарности за хорошую работу. Telephone Most Finns use a mobile phone (coutry code +358). There are several GSM operators in Finland and the range of coverage is approximately the same in the Helsinki area. In practice, you can use all the European mobile phone frequencies in Helsinki. However, finding a pay phone can be difficult. Finland has 13 area codes. Each area code starts with a zero. For directory enquiries, phone 118. If you are calling internationally, the most common prefixes are 00, 990 and 999, each giving slightly different rates for international calls. Те леф онная связь Большинство финнов пользуются мобильными телефонами. В Финляндии есть несколько мобильных операторов, использующих стандарт GSM. Зона покрытия каждого из них WELCOME TO HEL. The day ticket is the official and best travel card for getting around the Helsinki region. Use it to lighten up your stay. Buy a day ticket for 24h or more from an R-kiosk, HSL sales point or ticket machine.

7 Visit Helsinki Tourist Information Pohjoisesplanadi 19 • FI-00099 City of Helsinki • tel. +358 (0)9 3101 3300 • myhelsinki.fi Open daily in summer Mon–Sat 9–18, Sun 9–16 and in winter Mon–Fri 9–18, Sat–Sun 10–16 28 Discover Helsinki

86 в районе Хельсинки приблизительно одинакова. В Хельсинки можно использовать телефоны, подключенные в других странах Европы и работающие на любой частоте. Телефонавтомат при этом найти достаточно сложно. В Финляндии есть 13 телефонных кодов, соответствующих различным регионам страны. Каждый из них начинается с 0. За справками по поводу кода обращайтесь по тел. 118. Для звонков за границу используются в основном коды 00, 990 и 999, причем стоимость звонка при использовании каждого из них слегка различается. Shop Helsinki Gift & Souvenir Factory Shop Tourist Offices Helsinki offers superb services to tourists. The city employs a team of “Helsinki Helps” -guides who patrol the streets in teams of two, ready to assist. These friendly guides also carry useful literature. You will recognise them by their green uniforms. The invaluable Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau is located at Pohjoisesplanadi 19 (tel. 09 3101 3300). Drop in for maps, brochures and details of current events. Here you can also book a guided tour, a hotel room, and tickets for various events. The Tourist Information also takes guided tour bookings and sells Helsinki Cards and even travel tickets. In summer, the office is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday, and from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays. In winter, the opening hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. on Sundays. There are various other useful information sources in Helsinki. During the summer months, the Tourist & Convention Bureau places its mobile Info Container at the Market Square. It provides tips, advice, and the main Helsinki tourism brochures and maps. There is a tourist information point at Helsinki central railway station, which also houses the Helsinki Expert Shop, a travel agency that sells tickets for sightseeing tours and excursions and offers guide booking. The city of Helsinki runs an information point, Virka Info, at Helsinki City Hall at Pohjoisesplanadi 11–13. This office caters to both permanent residents and visitors to Helsinki. Kompassi, an information centre for young people, is located at Malminkatu 28. Ту ристические бю р о Обслуживание туристов в Хельсинки находится на высоком уровне. Существует служба под названием Helsinki Help: гиды, готовые оказать помощь, передвигаются по городу группами по двое, имея при себе полезные для туристов печатные материалы. Этих гидов можно опознать по зеленой форме. 5 Prices from € Shop Helsinki is a souvenir shop in the heart of Helsinki. We are located on ground level in the gateway from Kamppi shopping centre to Forum shopping centre. Access also from Narinkkatori square. Address: Simonkatu 9, 00100 Helsinki, tel. 0400-724633. Find directions from Google maps, just search Shop Helsinki - Mikebon

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The long-distance trains to other parts of Finland all depart from Helsinki central railway station. JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Неоценимую помощь может оказать Городское туристическое бюро (Helsinki City Tourist & Convention Bureau), расположенное по адресу: Pohjoisesplanadi, 19 (тел. 09 3101 3300). Там можно получить карты и брошюры, узнать о происходящих в городе событиях, а также заказать экскурсию по городу, номер в отеле, билеты на культурные мероприятия. Бюро принимает также предварительные заказы на экскурсии по городу. В туристическом бюро Хельсинки можно оставить заказ на экскурсию с гидом, купить карту Helsinki Card или приобрести проездной билет. Летом офис работает с 9 утра до 6 вечера по будням и субботам, а также с 9 утра и до 4 вечера по воскресеньям. Зимой офис открыт с 9 утра и до 6 вечера по будням, а также с 10 утра и до 4 вечера по воскресеньям. В Хельсинки есть и другие места, где предоставляется полезная информация. Летом на Рыночной площади для туристов устанавливается мобильный информационный стенд, где можно получить различные подсказки, советы, а также основные туристические брошюры и карты города. На Центральном вокзале Хельсинки имеется информационное бюро для туристов, в котором также размещается офис Helsinki Expert - туристического агентства, предлагающего экскурсии по городу, в том числе обзорные, и услуги гидов. Хельсинкскому муниципалитету принадлежит информационное бюро Virka Info (Pohjoisesplanadi, 11–13): его услугами пользуются как жители, так и гости города. ••• Discover Helsinki 31

100 F I N L A N D S U O M I T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N 2017 – the centenary of Finland’s independence 2017 is Finland’s big year as the country marks its 100 years of independence. The year is celebrated through an extensive and varied programme. FINLAND BECAME INDEPENDENT on 6 December 1917 when it rejected its status as an autonomous Grand Duchy of Russia, which it had been since 1809. Before that, the area that is now Finland had been under Swedish rule since the 13th century. Finland is small country. The total area of Finland makes up just 0.07 per cent of the total world area, and its population as much of the total population of the world. But even a small one can be among the best of the world, and that is exactly what Finland has done. In international comparisons Finland often shines, as we have succeeded in our hundred years of independence in building a stable, democratic society. 32 Discover Helsinki

The safest country in the world The centenary celebrations emphasise the importance of civil society, equality and creativity. Finland is a good country to visit and to live in. It is the safest country in the world, and the most stable one, with very little corruption and the least organized crime in the world. Finland is the freest country and the fifth happiest in the world. What’s more, we have several reasons to be proud of our capital, too. Helsinki is the most honest city in the world, and the third best to live in. In the summer months the 100-year-old is celebrated outdoors. One of the biggest events of the year is arranged 100 days prior to the Independence Day. During the ‘100 ‘til one hundred’ weekend in August (25th–27th August 2017) all of Finland is invited to take part in the celebrations. Hundreds of participants all across Finland create village festivals that will make the World’s Greatest Village Celebration. Helsinki takes par t in the celebrations The programme is built together The big year started in January 2017 and will culminate in 6 December 2017. The main theme for the year is together, meaning that everyone – both Finns and visitors to the country – can take part in it. There is a lively and varied Finland 100 programme that covers the whole year. The themes of the programme are as diverse as the Finns are, from tango to ice-skating, from sauna to street food. You can find the whole programme for the year at suomifinland100.fi. The centenary celebrations can be seen in Helsinki during the year. Most of the main events of the big year are arranged in Helsinki, but remember to look for smaller gems as well. Some of the highlights include a museum tram ride on a 100-year old tram, the Midsummer Bonfires at Seurasaari or Finland 100 open air movie nights at the Linnanmäki amusement park in August. Finland warmly welcomes friends of the country to take part in the celebrations! ••• KAI KUUSISTO / VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK Discover Helsinki 33

TRA N S PO RT A modern metro runs from the south-west to the north-east of Helsinki. >>> T E XT BY M A RKU S LE HT I PUU JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT FINLAND MADIA BANK Getting around Helsinki Helsinki is well served by public transportation networks. You can start your exploration of the city’s many landmarks by taking tram no. 2 with its circular route. After the tram ride, you can try the metro, take a bus or even catch a ferry. Getting To And From The Airpor t Tip! The Ring Rail Line will take you to and from the airport in 30 minutes for just 5.50 €. 34 Discover Helsinki Helsinki International Airport is located in Vantaa, thirty minutes from the city centre. Finnair buses run every twenty minutes from the airport to Elielinaukio at the central railway station in Helsinki. Tickets cost EUR 6.70. The slower local bus (no. 615) costs just EUR 5.50. It stops at the square beside the railway station, Rautatientori. The new Ring Rail Line provides a train connection between the airport and the city centre. The modern, low-floor trains run every 10 minutes in the daytime. The journey from the airport to the central railway station takes about 30 minutes. Minibus services, including Airport Taxi (tel. 0100 4800) and Yellow Line Airport Taxi (tel. 0600 555 555), charge a lump sum for a whole group travelling from the airport to a single destination in the city. An ordinary taxi from the airport to the city centre will cost approximately 50 euros, depending on the exact destination. City Transpor t System Helsinki Region Transport (HSL) provides an integrated service throughout the city. The standard ticket is valid on all forms of transport: trams, buses, metro, local trains and the ferry to Suomenlinna. Timetables and route maps are available from the HSL information offices free of charge. The main office, located at the central railway station, is open Monday to Thursday from 7.30 a.m. to 7 p.m., Fridays from 7.30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. A single ticket costs EUR 3.20 and is valid for one hour. There is also a separate tram ticket that can be bought beforehand in ticket machines, which costs EUR 2.50 and is valid for one hour too. A Helsinki Card, which is valid throughout the HSL network, will solve all your transport worries at a stroke. There are also one, three and five-day tourist tickets available.

May-September 10 20 STOPS - EVERY 20 min AUDIO 10 LANGUAGES GUIDE From The Senate Square 39 € EApL-Off!, 48 Hours D T S o BE op-On, H nlinna, e des H uom Inclu ruises, S ctions... c ra boat ms, att u e mus +358 207 118 338 30 €

Trams The residents of Helsinki are justly proud of their green-andyellow trams, which clutter their way through the city centre at a leisurely pace. You can purchase a single tram ticket beforehand in ticket machines. The ticket costs EUR 2.50. Buses Helsinki is the hub of an extensive local bus network which extends out in all directions. The metro is most useful for travelling east. HSL buses are easily identified by their blue livery. The Helsinki Card and tickets issued by HSL are valid on all routes within the Helsinki area. You can buy a ticket from the driver and it is valid for one hour. A route map for the local buses is available from the tourist office and from the HSL offices. Metro A modern, immaculately clean metro runs from Ruoholahti in the south-west to Mellunmäki and Vuosaari in the north-east of Helsinki. The last train leaves the centre approximately at 11.30 p.m. The network remains modest, but has its points. For example, you can take the metro to one of the largest shopping centres in Scandinavia, Itis. Uniquely, the metro will also drop you off at the gates of the Rastila camping site maintained by the city of Helsinki. The Western Metro Extension will extend the metro line to the neighboring city of Espoo. It is expected to open for service in 2017. Trains The local trains all depart from Helsinki central railway station. There are three main lines: Riihimäki via Tikkurila (Tampere line), Kirkkonummi via Espoo (Turku line) and Vantaankoski via Myyrmäki. There are both fast trains and local trains that call at every station on the way. The Helsinki Card and tickets issued by HSL are valid within the greater Helsinki area. If you wish to travel further, you can buy a regional ticket (seutulippu) for EUR 5.50. Tickets are not sold on board the train. Taxis Finnish taxis are luxury cars. The price is never cheap, but it does buy you a comfortable ride in a Mercedes or equivalent! LUXU RY T RA NSP O RTAT I O N S E RV I C E S AIRPORT TRANSFERS PRIVATE SIGHTSEEING LIMOUSINE TAXI 24/7 www.kovanen.com CUSTOMER CARE 24/7 +358 (0)200 6060

2 OF FINL AND AND ESTONI A T WIN CAPITALS Eckerö Line connects Helsinki and Tallinn with fast, modern and convinient m/s Finlandia. Live entertainment, best buffet restaurant and plenty of shopping possibilities on board. Two daily departures from Helsinki. Take a Day cruise to Tallinn and you have seven hours to explore the city. ECKEROLINE.FI 38 Discover Helsinki

There are plenty of taxis on offer during quiet times, but long queues can build late at night. All Helsinki’s taxis are metered, with fixed rates. If you require a taxi, phone 0100 0700, it is a local taxi service. You can also call Kovanen, a private taxi and limousine company with 24/7 customer care (tel. 0200 6060, www.kovanen.com). For taxi bookings, the Kovanen App is also available on the App Store. Car Rental Renting a car is a good way to explore the area surrounding Helsinki. The main international car rental companies are represented both at the airport and in the centre of Helsinki. Look under Autovuokraamoja (“Car Rental”) in the Yellow Pages. Bicycles Helsinki has excellent bicycle routes, and tours to outer suburbs are recommended. Bicycles can be rented from various locations in Helsinki, including Greenbike at Bulevardi 32 (greenbike.fi) and Ecobike at Savilankatu 1 b, next to the football stadium (ecobike.fi). Helsinki has brand new shared-use bicycles that you can borrow for a small fee. You can use the City bike for 30 minutes, or up to 5 hours for an extra charge. After your ride, the bike must be returned to one of the 50 bike stations located around the city centre. Boat Ser vices It is easy to overlook one of Helsinki’s main attractions: the extensive archipelago. In the summer, boat tours operate from the Market Square. A sunny summer day on the water – what better way of experiencing Helsinki? See page 60–64 for more information. A regular ferry service to the fortress island of Suomenlinna, run by HSL, departs from the Market Square approximately twice an hour. This service operates all the year round. The ticket costs the same as on the bus and metro, and the trip is absolutely free to holders of a Helsinki Card. Cardholders also travel free on the boat to Korkeasaari, a pretty island that is home to Helsinki Zoo. There are also numerous small islands south of Helsinki which are served by regular boats during the summer. Many have restaurants. See page 62–64 for more information. Sightseeing There are several companies arranging Hop-on hop-off sightseeing tours in Helsinki. Most of the buses have a stop at the Senate Square or nearby, although the routes vary. City Tour, for instance, shows you the best sights in Helsinki.

TRA N S P O RT Nearly 300 cruise ships with up to 400,000 passengers visit Helsinki every year. If you are interested in a personified private tour for a smaller group, Kovanen offers you a luxuriously comfortable and easy way to experience Helsinki with a driver-guided tour (tel. 0200 6161, www. kovanen.com). The See Helsinki On Foot brochure gives you five walking routes around Helsinki. The brochure can be downloaded them www.visithelsinki.fi. A guided bike tour is a nice and eco-friendly way to discover Helsinki. Bike Tours Helsinki, among others, arranges sightseeing tours by bike. See www.biketourshelsinki.com for more information. Private Flights Helsinki has no skyscrapers, so the only way to get a bird’s-eye view of the city is by private plane. You can also hire a private plane to fly to other parts of Finland and even abroad – certainly worth considering for urgent trips to the Baltic States or Russia. Espoo And Vantaa If you wish to travel beyond the Helsinki area by public transport, you need a regional ticket. It costs EUR 5.50 and is valid for one hour and twenty minutes. Timetables and route maps for buses and trains to Espoo and Vantaa are available free of charge from the HSL offices. Tikkurila, home to the Finnish Science Centre Heureka, is also accessible by local train. To visit the Serena Water Park, take bus no. 355T from Helsinki bus station. Alternatively, take bus no. 236 from Espoo Leppävaara railway station. To go to Nuuksio National Park, take bus no. 245 from Espoo Center. Flamingo Leisure World is the largest entertainment centre in Scandinavia with a shopping centre, cinema, spa, nightclub and various restaurants. It is located in Vantaa, quite nearby the airport. You can take the buses 415 or 614 from Helsinki bus station, although there is a short walk from the bus stop to Jumbo. You can ask the driver for instructions. Beyond Greater Helsinki Finland has an excellent public transport network. There are three competing airlines on the domestic routes, Finnair, SAS and Norwegian. 40 Discover Helsinki The train services are efficiently run by the Finnish State Railways (VR). The network links Helsinki to all the major cities in Finland, including outlying towns in Lapland. National bus services are coordinated by the Matkahuolto company. In practice, all population centres are accessible by bus. There is also a budget bus company called OnniBus that offers cheap inter-city fares starting from just 1 €. Nearly 300 cruise ships with up to 400,000 passengers visit Helsinki every year. The cruise quays are located in Hernesaari, West Harbour, South Harbour, and Katajanokka. In summer, a more exotic form of transport is available in the form of dozens of vintage steamboats! Although many have relinquished steam in favour of a modern engine, a few genuine old-timers continue to ply the waves. The lakes used to be a major transport route in Finland. Every summer, this tradition is revived – you can sail from Helsinki deep into the north by steamer. The best way of travelling to Turku, Tampere and Hämeenlinna is by rail. For Porvoo, the bus is most convenient. For travellers heading for Lapland, there are daily flights to Rovaniemi, Ivalo and other destinations. If you plan to tour Finland, a thorough travel guide and a book of timetables are essential. Tailored excursions are also easy to arrange by contacting a travel agency. St. Petersburg in Russia is now nearer to Helsinki than ever before – the new Allegro train connection will take you to St. Petersburg in three and a half hours. The train has four departures a day, and border formalities are operated conveniently aboard the moving train. Catching A Ferry Vast luxury ferries to Stockholm depart daily from South Harbour, in the centre of Helsinki, at 5 or 6 p.m. The Viking Line terminal is located at Katajanokka, and the Silja Line terminal is near Kaivopuisto Park. The express boats to Tallinn like Linda Line depart from near the Market Square. The car ferries to Tallinn, however, depart from West Harbour, near Ruoholahti metro station. The terminal is also used by St Peter Line that has a regular ferry connection to St. Petersburg. •••

9 EXPLORE YOUR DESTINATION Visiting friends or family, attending an event or taking a break to relax? Pack your bag and explore the beautiful landscape with Hertz. Please use the following code CDP 849311 when making a reservation. BOOK NOW AT HERTZ.FI 11 Take a break Hämeenkylä Manor is a unique manor hotel situated just 25 minutes away from Helsinki. Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city and enjoy our beautiful surroundings, delicious food and excellent service. Relax in our beautifully decorated rooms and enjoy the tasty cuisine prepared by our renowned chefs. Come and enjoy! Juustenintie 1, FI-01630 Vantaa | www.hameenkylankartano.fi | Reservations: 08.30am–04.00pm on weekdays, tel. +358 10 540 7500, sales.hotels@sodexo.fi | Other times, tel. +358 10 540 8350, hameenkylankartano@sodexo.fi 24 RASTILA CAMPING HELSINKI 165 modern caravan pitches 22 cottages. 5 saunas. 80 tent on grass. Karavaanikatu 4, 00980 Helsinki, Finland +358 9 310 78517 rastilacamping@hel.fi www.booking.com/rastila

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25 AU DIO 10 LA NG U GU AGE IDE S Since 1945 From The Market Square May-September 1,5 h 23€ CHILDREN FREE! DINNER CRUISES AT 18.00 www.royalline.fi +358 207 118 333

ACT I VI T I E S The Lutheran Cathedral is one of Helsinki’s best-known symbols. >>> T E XT BY T I M B I R D JUHO KUVA / VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK Attracted to Helsinki – Sights and attractions Helsinki is a pocket-sized city and its sights are almost within a walking distance. Still, there is plenty to see in Helsinki. IF YOU ARRIVE in Helsinki on one of the enormous cruise ferries from Stockholm, you will disembark in the South Harbour, in the heart of Helsinki and walking distance from many of its attractions. Set off in a straight line in almost any direction, and before long you will find yourself on a stretch of coast. Much of the city’s parkland, including the central favourite, Kaivopuisto, also spills down to the rocky shorelines of the Gulf of Finland. The historical area close to the South Harbour is also a good place to start an exploration of the city. When Finland was transferred from Swedish to Russian rule in 1809, the Tsarist rulers of the new Grand Duchy decided to switch the capital from Turku in the southwest to Helsinki. The architect Carl Ludvig Engel was commissioned to design a new city centre that would be fitting for a capital; the cluster of majestic neo-classical buildings that resulted, surrounding the Senate Square and close to the Market Square, remains Helsinki’s distinctive historic centre. The blindingly white Lutheran Cathedral, with its green domes and wide, sweeping steps leading down to the ample Senate Square and the statue of Alexander II, is probably Helsinki’s best-known and most admired symbol, while the columns and facades of the surrounding 19th century buildings are reminiscent of the imperial centre of St. Petersburg. Between the Senate Square and the Market Square are the Tori Quarters, historical buildings that are now being renovated. There are restaurants, shops and an indie movie theatre. The area is getting trendier and trendier by the minute. When you arrive at the Market Square, the fountain statue of Havis Amanda, the focus of student partying on May 1st, and the Kappeli restaurant and café at the eastern end of the Esplanade park are to your right as you approach the waterfront. Across the road to your left, the main Market Square – a bustle of colourful stalls in summer, and a huddle of canopies in winter – spills out across the cobbled quayside, while across the harbour to your right is the indoor Market Hall, where culinary delights are waiting for you. 44 Discover Helsinki

ACT I VI T I E S The island fortress of Suomenlinna is Helsinki’s top tourist attraction. >>> ESKO JÄMSÄ/ VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK From the Market Square, you can turn and admire the line of pastel-coloured historical buildings, from the calm blue of the City Hall to the creamy yellow of the Presidential Palace. Nearby, and visible from the Market Square on the edge of the Katajanokka promontory, the red brick and golden cupolas of the Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral are another reminder of Helsinki’s eastern heritage. This Cathedral has the most richly decorated interior of any church – and possibly any building at all – in the city, and makes a memorable and rewarding detour. The SkyWheel opposite the Cathedral is the newest landmark of Helsinki. A ride takes approximately 15 minutes and costs 12 euros. There is a new outdoor sea pool complex called Allas Sea Pool next to the SkyWheel. The spa’s pools and saunas are open yearround, and there are a couple of bars in the complex. The area has developed in the past few years and it has become quite interesting. Just across the street from Allas on a street called Kanavaranta there are four new restaurants and bars. It is a great area for partying hard on a warm summer evening and a romantic setting for a candle-lit dinner on a darkening autumn night. Island beauty On the seaward horizon from the Market Square, you’ll catch a glimpse of the church tower that doubles as a lighthouse on the island fortress of Suomenlinna, and it is also from the Market Square that the passenger ferries depart for the fortress. Suomenlinna is Helsinki’s top tourist attraction and worth a visit at any time of the year. See the next article for more information on Suomenlinna. Another island attraction brimming with Finnish history, and also worth a visit in any season, is Seurasaari. The island holds Helsinki’s Open Air Museum of historic rural buildings, collected from around the country and reconstructed in a peaceful woodland setting. Another attraction here is the ban on most motor vehicles and even on bicycles, and the forested island is a relaxing haven from the bustle of the city. Watch out for the hungry and very tame squirrels as you explore the maze of footpaths crisscrossing the island. Windmills, granaries, entire mansions and manors, boathouses and other meticulously reassembled structures are dotted through the woods. Seurasaari is also the focus for traditional Midsummer bonfires, 46 Discover Helsinki dancing and other celebrations, and the old church is a popular venue for weddings then and throughout the summer. Some sightseeing cruise boats leaving from the Market Square drop in at Seurasaari, but from the land you can reach it along a wooden causeway, close to the final stop of the no. 24 bus. Seurasaari is to the north of the city centre, and you can combine a visit with a look at the previous home (now a museum) of the late President Urho Kekkonen, the architect of Finland’s post-war political policy. There are a couple of charming cafés in the area, including the Tamminiemi Café, the interior of which is like an elegant scene from a play by Chekhov. E xplore architectural showpieces Heading back from Seurasaari, you pass close to several other main Helsinki attractions. One of these is the Sibelius monument, a tribute to Finland’s best-loved composer made from silver tubes that evoke the pipes of an organ. The monument is in the small Sibelius Park, close to a picturesque stretch of shoreline. The no. 24 bus back into town also goes through the Töölö area, close to the Temppeliaukio church, known in English as “the Church in the Rock”. The National Romantic variation on the art nouveau Jugendstil theme is expressed in the turrets, rural motifs and quirky granite detail of the National Museum on Mannerheimintie 34 and the National Theatre, fronted by the statue of the pensive, seated novelist and playwright Aleksis Kivi, in the Railway Station Square. As for the main Railway Station itself, no rail terminus in the world can match this creation by Eliel Saarinen for character and idiosyncrasy. Its arched façade, guarded on either side by two lamp-holding granite figures, has reminded more than one observer of an early radio set. Opposite the National Theatre, across the Railway Station Square, are the classical columns of the Ateneum Art Museum, one part of the Finnish National Gallery, housing Finnish works dating back three centuries from the mid-20th. Contemporary art of the Finnish National Gallery is housed in the Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma, one of Helsinki’s more controversial and modern structures, adjacent to the main Post Office and the statue of the horse-borne Marshal Mannerheim. The space-age transparent cube of Sanomatalo,

ACT I VI T I E S the headquarters of Finland’s biggest media group, is also nearby, and next to it the Helsinki music centre Musiikkitalo. The stern edifice of the Parliament, also on Mannerheimintie, was also extended with a modern annex. This whole area has undergone dramatic developments in recent years, and these changes to the city’s central profile are continuing, underlying Finland’s forward-looking dynamism. The newest building to rise in the area is the Central Library that will open its doors in 2018. Further along Mannerheimintie are a few more landmarks on the central Helsinki skyline. First is the Finlandia concert and congress hall, whose graceful white lines on the edge of the Töölönlahti bay and Hesperia park are the work of Finland’s most celebrated architect, Alvar Aalto. The less graceful, but no less striking Opera House is a further along the shore. A little way to the north is the white tower of the Olympic Stadium, the stage for the Helsinki 1952 Olympic Games and still the top outdoor sports venue. Your reward at the top of the tower is one of the best views of the city, from the dome of the Cathedral to the south to the administrative blocks of Pasila in the north. 50 Attractions for children The amusement park at Linnanmäki is Finland’s most-visited attraction, and its spring opening is a major annual event on the calendar of Helsinki children. As well as a selection of rides and attractions of varying degrees of scariness, Linnanmäki houses Sea Life, an excellent aquarium and marine education centre. If you still have some energy left after a day at Linnanmäki, Tropicario, a tropical animal house is near by at Sturenkatu 27. Another big Helsinki attraction for children takes us back to the sea and the island zoo of Korkeasaari which you can reach by ferry from the Market Square and from the square at Hakaniemi, as well as by footbridge from Kulosaari in eastern Helsinki. Animals indigenous to the north, including elk, lynx and reindeer, are well represented, but there is a generous selection of exotica, such as camels, lions and snow leopards. The Natural History Museum at Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 13 is the third most popular museum in Finland. You can stop at the feet of a dinosaur or listen to the sounds of wild African animals. The Tram Museum (Töölönkatu 51 A) is located at the oldest tram depot in Helsinki. The museum houses a smallish but interesting collection of

46 Linnanmäki, a Finnish word for fun Experience an unforgetable day with your whole family. Have fun on the largest selection of rides in the Nordic countries, enjoy quality cuisine, experience SEA LIFE and see free Panorama view over Helsinki from the sightseeing tower. Entrance to the Amusement Park is free of charge. Tivolikuja 1, 00510 Helsinki Amusement Park www.linnanmaki.fi/en

ACT I VI T I E S There are several free playgrounds in central Helsinki. trams, and there are also old uniforms and tram tickets on show. You may step inside some of the old trams. Free entry. The recently renovated Lasten Kaupunki / Chlidren’s Town Museum (Aleksanterinkatu 16) is open every day and the entry is always free. Children can learn more about the city’s history through doing and experiencing things for themselves. The museum is a small gem and a visit there is highly recommended. Should you feel peckish after your visit, Café Köket (Aleksanterinkatu 28) a few doors up the street serves breakfast, lunch and brunch, and has a playroom for the smallest visitors. Among the most child-friendly cafés in Helsinki are the new Moomin-themed cafés called Mumin Kaffe. The chain has three branches, the most central of which is located at the Stockmann department store (Aleksanterinkatu 52). For any small book lover, the children’s book café Haitula (Annantalo, Annankatu 30) is a dream come true. The cosy little café serves a simple lunch, too. There are several free playgrounds in central Helsinki. The most centrally located are quite small (for example, the ones at Vanha kirkkopuisto, Lönnrotinkatu 6 or Kaisaniemi park), but a few bus stops away from the centre you’ll find nice parks by the sea. At Kaivopuisto park (Puistokatu 4) there is a biggish playground with a sea view. The playground of Lahnalahti (Lauttasaarentie 40–42) is worth the bus ride: a playground next to a nice beach with a café. Take the bus no. 21 BX towards Lauttasaari and ask the driver for instructions. Most of the department stores and shopping centres have play areas and childcare facilities. You can change diapers, heat up food and let the older kids play on the 6th floor at Stockmann, the 3rd floor of the Kamppi shopping centre or the newish 3rd floor of Forum shopping centre. If you wish to shop for something original for your kids, try Punavuoren Peikko (Uudenmaankatu 15) or Harakanpesä (Eerikinkatu 12) for stylish Scandinavian clothes. Ombrellino (Pohjoisesplanadi 17) is a tiny shop on a busy shopping street, brimming with wonderful toys. 50 Discover Helsinki Activities for the whole family If it should rain during your stay, try one of the indoor adventure parks. The ones nearest to the city centre are HopLop at the Ruoholahti Shopping Centre (Itämerenkatu 21, metro station: Ruoholahti) and Helsingin leikkiluola / Helsinki Playground (Sörnäisten rantatie 6). The little ones can release their energy by running, bouncing, jumping and climbing. Huimala (Ajomiehentie 1), a bit off the centre, is an exclusive indoor adventure park for the whole family, open all-year round. Children can jump on trampolines or slide down the longest indoor slide in Finland, while older children and adults can ride thrilling zip-lines, step on the high ropes courses or climb the climbing walls up to almost 20 meters in height. Salmisaaren Liikuntakeskus at Ruoholahti has indoor climbing, indoor beach volley, bowling and several other sports facilities. A recently opened indoor miniature golf centre, Hohtogolf West Coast (Yrjönkatu 24), offers unique excitement right in the heart of central Helsinki. A crazy set of special effects creates an atmosphere of laughter and horror while putting through a number of tracks that you’ve never played before. A perfect break, especially if the weather is not at its best, for a family or group of friends. The newest addition to the Helsinki area’s adventure parks is the Dudesons Activity Park that will be opened in autumn 2017 at the Iso Omena shopping centre in Espoo. The activity park will have bagjump and foampit jumping areas, a ninja track and a large freestyle area. Rush Trampoline park (Valimotie 25) has 2,800 square metres dedicated to jumping adventures. The park has a large free jump area as well as special areas for extreme dodgeball, trampoline basketball and the likes. If it is adventures outdoors you are looking for, there are three tree top parks in Helsinki. The two branches of Adventure Park Korkee (Mustikkamaanpolku 2 or Pakilantie 124) have several adventure trails both for adults and for small children ranging from easy to very challenging. Adventure Park Zippy (Huopalahdentie 28) challenges you to go through the course from tree to tree using climbing walls, ladders, swings and trapezes. See also page 86–89 for sports activities in Helsinki. •••

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53 Come and enjoy the city of Helsinki and surrounding islands from the observation wheel! Original SkySauna combines sauna in the sky with an amazing sea-view and a comfortable hot tub. You can rent the sauna experience for up to 20 people for your personal use. You have the chance to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Helsinki, experience the one of a kind sauna gondola, relax in the massaging Hotspring hot tub and enjoy refreshing beverages in good company. For reservations and more information, please visit: www.skysauna.fi or contact info@skysauna.fi / +358 404 804 604 Katajanokanlaituri 2, 00160 Helsinki I +358 40 480 4604 I info@skywheel-helsinki.com

42 EXPERIENCE INCREDIBLE HELSINKI LIKE NEVER BEFORE! Next to Market Square! Katajanokanlaituri 2B, 00160 Helsinki www.flytourxd.com.

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45 M I N I A T U R E G O L F • L A S E R M A Z E O B S T A C L E C O U R S E • C U R L I N G The miniature golf tracks at Hohtogolf West Coast are first of its kind in the whole of Europe. The groundbreaking special effects create a fun and exciting experience for families, groups of friends as well as for individual players as each put will yield something unexpected that’ll make you either laugh or scream, or both simultaneously! Our indoor minigolf center has 15 surprising tracks, 7 of which have horror movie theme special effects. As part of the golf tour, the center has a so called horror alley which creates a unique claustrophobic special effect. We offer perfect surroundings for memorable corporate events, birthdays for children and adults, bachelor parties, hen nights, first (or even fourth) dates or just a fun night out with friends. From our fully licensed bar you can take your drink to your “tour de golf”. CURLING Book our exclusive VIP Curling room for your use and compete on a synthetic curling track to see who’s the best player! Hohtogolf West Coast, Helsinki Yrjönkatu 24, 00100 Helsinki helsinki@hohtogolf.fi Tel. +358 9 2519 1112 Only one block from Stockmann! NEW! Hohtogolf West Coast Iso Omena, Espoo Piispansilta 11, 02230 Espoo omena@hohtogolf.fi Tel. +358 9 6899 8152 Check prices and openin hours: Hohtogolf West Coast, Flamingo Tasetie 8, 01510 Vantaa flamingo@hohtogolf.fi Tel. +358 9 4289 0112 Only three kilometers from Helsinki-Vantaa Airport! ~20 min with metro from Helsinki center to Matinkylä Iso Omena shopping center www.hohtogolf.fi

52 36 Have a great summer adventure at Korkee Park. Located in Mustikkamaa, only 4 km from city center and NEW park at Paloheinä, near by the airport. Discover Helsinki www.discoverhelsinki.fi INTERACTIVE PRINT WITH LAYAR Kids trail’s 3–6 yrs 14 € • Youth/Adult trail’s 24 € More information www.korkee.fi

40 41 THAI MASSAGE FLOATING ROOM FLOAT & RELAX IS AN EXCLUSIVE DAY SPA BODY TREATMENTS WELLNESS CENTER IN HELSINKI. NEUROSPA Fredrikinkatu 25, Helsinki 00120 • +358 45 888 0004 • welcome@floating.fi • www.floating.fi

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39 Play is the highest form of research. – ALBERT EINSTEIN Heureka Joy of Discovery! Heureka, The Finnish Science Centre is open 7 days a week, just 15 minutes from Helsinki city centre by train.

Swimmers at Tervasaari right in the heart of the city. >>> S E A T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Helsinki – Never far from water The coastal waters off Helsinki are dotted with islands of all shapes and sizes. It is not without reason that Helsinki is often dubbed “the Daughter of the Baltic”. THE BEST AND most traditional way to arrive in Finland’s capital is by sea. Solitary, rugged islets and skerries, often inhabited only by the gulls, come into view and hint at the proximity of land already many kilometres before you reach harbour. Then larger islands gradually appear to port and starboard. It is abundantly obvious one is arriving in an archipelago city. Discover living history The main fairway into Helsinki’s South Harbour passes through the narrow straight known as Kustaanmiekka (“Gustav’s Sword”). To the right the landscape of Vallisaari, owned by the Finnish Defence Forces, looks practically untouched, but to the left on the island of Kustaanmiekka itself it can be hard on a hot summer’s day to distinguish the outlines of the fortress walls for the thousands of tourists thronging the place. Kustaanmiekka is a part of one of Helsinki’s most popular sights, the naval fortress of Suomenlinna, the fascinating history and unique military architecture of which caused UNESCO to list the islands among its World Heritage sites. Work on the construction of Suomenlinna began in 1748, when Finland was still a part of the burgeoning kingdom of Sweden. Sweden wished to have a naval fortress to protect its eastern outpost from Russia, which posed a threat to Swedish dominance in the Northern Baltic. Helsinki in those days was a small and largely irrelevant town. The fort was given the name Sveaborg, and in Finnish it became known as Viapori. It was a city of its own, with a population considerably larger than that of Helsinki on the mainland. The cosmopolitan officer class at the garrison also maintained a lively cultural life on the islands, which still flourishes today. 60 Discover Helsinki

S E A Vallisaari, a former military island that has opened to visitors recently. In 1808, despite their greater numbers and the relative impregnability of the fortifications, the forces on Viapori surrendered to the Russians. Next year, Finland became incorporated into Russia as an autonomous Grand Duchy. The fortifications and artillery, designed to guard against a threat from the east, would now look westwards instead. Under Russian rule, there was a large military garrison stationed on Viapori, with more than 13,000 soldiers at its highest point. Helsinki underwent a dramatic change, too: from 1812 it was made into the Grand Duchy’s new capital city. The former capital Turku was suddenly seen as “too close to Sweden for comfort”. Viapori witnessed yet more construction work, including a church. The original church was to serve the Orthodox faith, but when Finland declared herself independent in 1917 the traditional onion domes were removed and it was reconsecrated as a Lutheran place of worship. Interestingly, the church tower also contains a lighthouse, which still guides ships and aircraft into Helsinki. In 1918 the fortress islands were re-named Suomenlinna, “fortress of Finland”. The military importance of the fortifications gradually declined, and in 1973 Suomenlinna passed into the hands of a civil administration. On Kustaanmiekka, the southernmost part of the island group, there is a pizzeria (Nikolai) and a gourmet restaurant (Walhalla). Here it is easy to feel that one is part of some great historical chapter, since during the Swedish period the building housed the famous Walhalla Orden, one of Viapori’s many secret societies. On a fine day, the Walhalla terrace offers wonderful views out to the open sea and the outer islands. At around six in the evening, you can also watch as the colossal ferries to and from Sweden pass through what seems an impossibly narrow channel towards the open sea. There is a strong temptation to reach out and shake hands with the passengers on board. Some will argue that the terrace of the Café Piper in the English formal garden laid out on neighbouring Susisaari offers Helsinki’s best panoramas, allowing the combination of a cool beer and unlimited ship-spotting. Café Chapman has a convenient location near the waterbus pier. They have a lunch buffet daily and serve as an à la carte restaurant on summer evenings. Suomenlinna also boasts a brewery of its own. Suomenlinna Brewery Restaurant, located only a few steps from the ferry, serves food made from fresh Finnish ingredients and their own beers. Magpie and other hidden treasures Suomenlinna today These days Suomenlinna is home to families and artists and is a part of the City of Helsinki, with a total year-round population of about 900. Suomenlinna is also still an important cultural centre, with museums, galleries, restaurants, and cafés. The old shipyard is active in restoring wooden sailing vessels. Access to the islands is possible from Helsinki’s South Harbour, with a ferry plying the short distance from the mainland from early morning until late at night. In the summer a number of waterbuses also include Suomenlinna on their itineraries. Among the many museums worth looking into is the Doll & Toy Museum, which has a delightful collection of doll houses and toys dating from the 1830s onwards, and is as attractive to adults as it is to children. 62 Discover Helsinki The area immediately to the south of the city itself is littered with small islets, many of which have scheduled boat connections in the summer months. One of the most interesting is Harakka (“Magpie”), a birdwatchers’ paradise just a few dozen metres from the quay known as Merisatama. Numerous artists’ studios here also guarantee that Harakka offers interesting, often avant-gardist exhibitions and events around the year. Boats to Harakka leave from Ullanlinna near the Café Ursula. The newest island attraction in Helsinki is Vallisaari, a former military island that has opened to visitors recently. The enchanting island has beautiful fortifications and wild nature with the richest range of species in the Helsinki metropolitan area. The island can be reached by waterbus from the Market Square during the summer season.

Vallisaari, a former military island, is the newest island attraction in Helsinki. KALLE KATAILA / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Another newcomer is Lonna that opened to visitors a few years ago. The small island has a restaurant, café and waffle bar where you can even buy a ready-packed picnic basket. Pihlajasaari is one of the most popular islands. It has an official nude beach, and free camping at weekends. Boats to Pihlajasaari leave from Eira, near the Café Carusel. In the summer it is possible to eat out in Helsinki well away from the city noise and exhaust fumes on several island restaurants. One of the best known is Saaristo in a lovely wooden villa on a small island right next to the Kaivopuisto Park and the Olympia Terminal, where the large white Silja Line ferries tie up. It is only a short boat ride away from the Olympia Terminal. Särkänlinna (on the little islet known as Särkkä) is housed in an old arms store that can accommodate 120 people. Don’t be alarmed here if the floor of the restaurant dining room seems to be sloping towards the kitchen. The effect is a memory from the previous use of the building: the floor was built on a slight continuous slope so that cannon balls could easily be rolled from the store to the guns. Close by this popular restaurant you can also find Uunisaari (literally “Oven Island”), which is known for its beach and its saunas. Here, too, there is a pleasant restaurant with a busy terrace. The Merisatama quay also offers a boat-hop of a few minutes to Sirpalesaari, where there is a summer restaurant, Saari. This place is highly popular in the late summer when the crayfish season is in full swing. Merisatama is, by the way, also the boarding point for trips to the city-owned beach islands of Pihlajasaari, located a couple of kilometres offshore. There is a camping area on the islands, and a unisex nudist beach. Discover Helsinki 63

S E A There are several free playgrounds in central Helsinki. Swinging back towards the South Harbour, the yacht club NJK has a restaurant on the island of Valkosaari, right in the heart of the harbour. The large panorama windows of the building, which dates from 1900, provide a dazzling view of the Market Square and the passenger vessels coming in and out of the harbour. Ships ahoy For those who prefer their own company or for groups who want a bit of peace and quiet, there are plenty of places around the coast to choose from. Renting a boat makes it possible to pop off for a picnic on an island where you are guaranteed not to see another soul. Boat rental outlets also offer fishing trips to proven waters in the Helsinki area. A sightseeing trip by boat is one of the best ways to get to know Helsinki and its history. You can step on board at several places, for example in the Market Square and at the Merisatama quay referred to earlier. You can choose between a number of companies and routes for archipelago cruises. Some companies offer lunch or dinner cruises, and the ticket prices start at 15 to 20 euros. Summer Helsinki is a dream destination for anyone who is into sailing. Local yacht clubs have numerous marinas and harbours with guest facilities, in the south, west, and eastern parts of the city, and there are also chandlers and boat supplies stores close by. Beach life With all this talk of boats, it might seem that they are a must. Not so. There are plenty of beaches that can be enjoyed without taking to the water to get at them. Hietaranta, or “Hietsu” to the locals, is right downtown, and is the city’s most famous and most popular beach. Expect a lot of company on hot July days. Outside the city centre proper there are also any number of attractive and unspoilt beaches that are worth checking out as the mercury rises. In particular the beaches in the eastern districts of the city make it difficult to imagine you are in a metropolitan area with a population of around a million people. Try the one at Kallahdenniemi for starters, down at the end of a gravel path fringed with spruce 64 Discover Helsinki trees. Buses no. 560 and 816 will get you there from the Vuosaari metro station. You can also find the beach of Aurinkolahti in Vuosaari (metro station: Vuosaari). Aurinkolahti is informally known as the “Riviera of Helsinki” and is a nice place to visit on a sunny day. A 700-meter swimming beach and a marina are two of Aurinkolahti’s best features. However, ironically enough, Helsinki’s most interesting beach is not by the sea at all, but on the banks of the Vantaa River, in the district known as Oulunkylä. You can get there from downtown on bus 21 BX. After walking down a steepish hill, the visitor is rewarded with an impressive sight: the river makes a small bay in the shelter of a high rock outcrop. The boldest jump into the water from a platform built on the top of the sheer cliff! In case you desire a refreshing swim in the city centre, you might want to head to the Helsinki Swimming Stadium, an outdoors swimming venue near by the Helsinki Olympic Stadium or to the Kumpula Outdoor Swimming Pool (Allastie 1). If you are looking for something special, try the Allas outdoor sea pool complex (Katajanokanlaituri 2) located a stone’s throw away from the Helsinki marketplace. The Baltic Sea – a Unique Ecosystem Today, the sea plays still an important part in the lives of the Helsinki residents. For example, there is an annual Baltic herring festival every October. The week-long event, held in and around the Market Square, continues to be a great favourite. Some of the fish on sale there will have had their origins in fish hatcheries, which place a burden on the fragile ecology of the Baltic Sea. The Baltic is home to a unique ecosystem, but the currents in this shallow sea are weak, and the water circulates badly. The WWF has drawn up a Baltic Sea improvement programme for the nine countries with a shoreline on the Baltic. In order that the nutrient levels in the Baltic can be kept in check or even reduced, the WWF has demanded reductions in agricultural emissions and cuts in discharges from household wastewater, traffic, and industry. Finland is fighting the eutrophication battle and seeking to improve the condition of sea areas through internatisonal action. •••

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© Jussi Hellsten The Smart & Clean Project DO, DO, DO – CHANGE THE WORLD – PROSPER Helsinki Metropolitan is the best test bed in the world for smart and clean solutions. Solutions created in the area improve the quality of life and mitigate climate change. The cooperation between cities, businesses, research organisations, the government and citizens is unique to the world. Smart & Clean means a systematic way of combining and renewing world-changing services and solutions, which improve the quality of life, mitigate climate change and promote circular economy. These are technologies, solutions and services for the built environment, the energy system, consumers and mobility. It is possible to turn the crises caused by climate change and resource scarcity into possibilities in the cities. Unique cooperation drives smart and clean change in the Helsinki Metropolitan. It is the only area in the world where cities, companies, research organisations, the government and citizens combine their strengths in order to build smart and clean solutions. They create a new operating model for cities, in which they are the test beds for new solutions. Helsinki Metropolitan is built in an area that can offer the best smart and clean solutions for different challenges facing the world’s cities. – We have a unique culture in Finland and the Helsinki Metropolitan region to get things done. That, combined with the seamless cooperation of all the important parties in making the change, enables us to lead the way to better quality and more sustainable life, Helsinki Metropolitan Smart & Clean Foundation Executive Director Tiina Kähö says. SMART & CLEAN CHANGES TURN SUSTAINABILITY CRISES INTO OPPORTUNITIES The solutions developed in the best test bed work as references for companies everywhere in the world. The solutions tested in the world’s best test bed are also the best in the world. There is a large market for sustainable technology solutions globally and Finland has substantial expertise in the area. Finnish Innovation Fund Sitra estimates that the global market for smart and clean solutions will reach 6,000 billion euros by 2030. Cities, companies, research organisations and universities, as well as the government, are committed to a step change in developing and adopting smart and clean solutions and services in Finland, especially in the Helsinki region. They have launched a five-year change project to drive this change: the Helsinki Metropolitan Smart & Clean Foundation. The project’s task is to drive, support and facilitate changes, as well as lead the communications on the topic both in Finland and internationally. www.smartclean.fi

Finland has top experts in the Smart & Clean field, a new startup spirit and a culture of getting things done. Smart and clean solutions are created and implemented in mobility, the built environment, energy, waste and water, as well as consumer cleantech. © Veikko Veikko Somerpuro Somerpuro © Solutions are created across cities and business sectors. The home market created will carry export concepts for companies, as well as solutions for companies and city challenges globally.

ARCH ITECTU R E The Uspenski Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe, is one of the clearest symbols of the Russian impact on Finland. >>> T E XT BY MON A SCHA LI N KIMMO BRANDT / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Architecture in Helsinki – A mixture of east and west What does Helsinki have to offer visitors interested in architecture? Both architecturally and culturally, Helsinki is an idiosyncratic mix of eastern and western influence. The main theatres, museums, and concert halls are all centrally located, and many public and commercial buildings manifest outstanding architectural quality. HELSINKI IS YOUNGER and smaller than most of the other European capitals, and its spacious town plan gives it a horizontal skyline. There are plenty of parks and squares, and almost everywhere you sense the presence of the sea. The old centre was built on a narrow promontory, and the modern city has fanned out onto the mainland, where you can detect distinct layers of development in the stylistically unified zones, which alternate like year rings. The actual city centre is concentrated along Aleksanterinkatu and the main north-south thoroughfare Mannerheimintie. It star ted as a modest town Finland was part of the Swedish empire until the early nineteenth century. Helsinki was founded in 1550 by King Gustavus I Wasa at the mouth of the Vantaa River, to compete with the Hanseatic port of Tallinn across the Baltic, and to boost trade with Russia. In 1640, the town was shifted close to the area that is now Senaatintori (the Senate Square), which offered a better harbour. For another hundred years, Helsinki remained a very modest trading town. None of the buildings erected before 1750 managed to survive, having either burned down or been demolished to make way for subsequent development. The town received a sudden boost with the founding of the sea fortress of Sveaborg in 1748. It is presently known by its Finnish name, Suomenlinna. 68 Discover Helsinki

ARCH ITECTU R E A view towards Hakaniemi with residential houses built in the first years of the 20th century. TIM BIRD / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK The yellow city is born Tip! The characteristically yellow buildings of Helsinki date from the 19th century. Many of them were designed by C.L. Engel. 70 Discover Helsinki In 1808, Russia invaded Finland. One year later Finland was ceded to Russia, and Helsinki was destroyed by a huge fire. More importantly, in 1812, Czar Alexander I declared Helsinki the new capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland. All this paved the way for a new town plan drawn up by Johan Albrecht Ehrenström. New buildings were designed by the Prussian architect Carl Ludvig Engel. When Engel first arrived, Helsinki had a mere 4,000 inhabitants. By the time he died in 1840, the figure had risen to 18,000, and the new townscape was dominated by light-coloured, plastered brick buildings and low, timbered log houses. The centrepiece was the new Senate Square around which were arranged the key institutions of government, religion, and higher learning. On the northern flank soared the Lutheran church of St. Nicholas, or Helsinki Cathedral. To this day, travellers arriving in Helsinki by sea are faced with this historic, Empire-style city centre. The wooden houses that once surrounded it have long since disappeared. However, the street layout between the Senate Square and Eteläsatama (the South Harbour) and Kauppatori (the Market

Helsinki was destroyed by a huge fire. Square) dates from the Swedish era, as do some of the buildings, although many of the facades have been altered. Many of the characteristically yellow buildings you see in Helsinki date from this era, too. Towards metropolitanism The hectic construction that took place in the closing decades of the nineteenth century is everywhere in evidence in central Helsinki. Four- and five-storey commercial buildings and residential blocks were erected on Pohjoisesplanadi, Bulevardi, and Erottaja, designed in a style that emulated the architecture of Vienna and Berlin. The so-called period of Eclecticism produced many richly decorated buildings including Theodor Höijer’s Ateneum (which now houses the Museum of Finnish Art) and, by Gustaf Nyström, the National Archives of Finland, the House of Estates, Helsinki Market Hall, and the greenhouse of the Botanical Gardens. On an elevation just east of the Empire-style city centre, A. M. Gornostayev designed the Uspenski Cathedral, whose Byzantine silhouette makes a prominent contribution to the skyline of the South Harbour. The Bank of Finland (designed by the German architect Ludwig Bohnstedt), the National Archives of Finland, and the House of Estates form an imposing square of their own just north of the Senaatintori. Nouveau ideas Helsinki’s architecture offers many examples of turn of the century Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) and the classicism that followed. These styles can be studied in numerous public buildings. The National Museum, the National Theatre, and Eliel Saarinen’s Central Railway Station are some of the landmarks of this period. Of the original interiors that still survive, it is worth noting the Jugendsali on Pohjoisesplanadi 19, which is currently used for exhibitions, the restaurant of the Hotel Seurahuone, designed by Armas Lindgren, and the glazed atrium of the Helsinki Stock Exchange building on Fabianinkatu, designed by Lars Sonck. East of the Uspenski Cathedral stands the unique Katajanokka district, whose picturesque older streets are dominated by Art Nouveau features: massive stone gates, bay windows, and dreamlike turrets. Other early 20th-century Jugendstil delights can be found in the areas of Kruununhaka and Eira. Boldly modernist Finland declared independence in the aftermath of the Russian Revolution in 1917. In the first years of independence, architects entertained futuristic visions, dreaming of an American-style city centre. The nearest they got to a skyscraper was the 14-storey Hotel Torni (“Tower”) of 1931. To this day, the planning policy has been to maintain an unbroken, horizontal skyline. The most important public building project of the 1920s was the Finnish Parliament, designed by J. S. Sirén. Finally completed in 1931, the Parliament building stands on an elevation, and is an imposing, granite cube conceived in a classical idiom. The Stockmann department store further south on Mannerheimintie was completed around the same time. The Kunst-halle, or Taidehalli, by Jarl Eklund and Hilding Ekelund, is on Nervanderinkatu 3 and offers an elegant example of socalled Nordic Classicism, the predominant style of the 1910s and 1920s. Many examples of this restrained classicist idiom survive in the domestic architecture of the period. The suburb of Puu-Käpylä, with its colourful timber houses and leafy gardens, is one of the finest examples of the style, built on the scale of a small town. The Modern Movement entered Finnish architecture quite smoothly, without rancorous debate. The Lasipalatsi (“Glass Palace”) building on Mannerheimintie 22–24 still appears as a fresh Modernist statement. Initially intended as only a temporary structure, this two-storey complex is now a lovingly restored Functionalist shrine. Another glittering Modernist interior that has been restored is the famous Karl Fazer café on Kluuvikatu. Finally, Alvar Aalto’s distinctive, sensuous brand of Modernism can be experienced at the Savoy restaurant on Eteläesplanadi 14. Today Modern Movement architecture is regarded as an integral part of our heritage. Discover Helsinki 71

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<<< The Finnish National Opera seen from the other side of Töölönlahti bay.
 JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK A growing city Finland suffered great hardship during the World War II, and the postwar reconstruction effort was not completed until the 1950s. With the burgeoning growth of the city in the 1950s and 1960s, the focus of new building shifted to the suburbs. Tapiola Garden City was built among pristine forests and meadows in Espoo, west of Helsinki. Tapiola became internationally famous for its spacious layout and meticulous landscape design. Public building in Helsinki escalated in the 1950s, the “Golden Age” of Finnish architecture. Numerous buildings were commissioned, among them the Helsinki School of Economics (Runeberginkatu 14– 16) and the Porthania Building of Helsinki University (Yliopistonkatu 3). The renowned architect Alvar Aalto, who had already made his name in the 1930s, designed the main office of the National Pensions Institute of Finland, the House of Culture (Kulttuuritalo), and the so-called Rautatalo (“Iron House”) office building with its Marble Hall. Anyone who steps inside one of these interiors will sense Aalto’s special gift for creating fluid spatial sequences. A late Aalto masterpiece, the white, marble-clad Finlandia Hall (Mannerheimintie 13 E), also impresses with its foyer, auditorium, and congress wing. Amongst tourists, the best-known building in Helsinki is almost certainly the church at Temppeliaukio (Lutherinkatu 3). It is often known simply as “The Church in the Rock”, and is partially embedded in a granite outcrop. The gently-domed copper roof, large skylight windows, and impressive rough-hewn stone interior draw large crowds to the church, which was designed in the 1960s by two brothers, Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen. The late 1970s represent a statistical watershed: approximately half the buildings in Finland have been completed after that time. The population of Helsinki multiplied as people from the country’s outlying regions inexorably moved south. Helsinki today Various schemes to develop the area surrounding the inland bay of Töölönlahti have been aired during Finland’s independence. Three major cultural buildings have been completed on the shores of this inlet of the sea: Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall, Timo Penttilä’s Helsinki City Theatre (1967), and the Finnish National Opera (1993) by the Hyvämäki-Karhunen-Parkkinen partnership. The area is constantly developing. Facing Parliament on the other side of Mannerheimintie and next to the main Railway Station is the bastion of Helsingin Sanomat, the country’s largest daily newspaper. This large nine-storey cube has brought fresh glass architecture and a new scale of building to the heart of the city. It was designed by Antti-Matti Siikala and Jan Söderlund from SARC Architects. During the past few decades, major new developments in the city centre have taken place behind the historic facades, as new pedestrian routes and glazed shopping precincts have been created among the masonry buildings erected in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. A piece of original architecture is the Museum of Contemporary Art (Kiasma) by the American Steven Holl, which has won plaudits and stimulated debate. ••• REMEMBER THESE TREASURES The Pohjola building (Aleksanterinkatu 44) with its abundant decorative sculpture is worth a stop during your shopping spree. For inner peace, spend a few quiet moments at the National Library of Finland (Unioninkatu 36) designed by C.L. Engel. For a peek of a different side of Helsinki, take the tram no. 7 to Mäkelänkatu and visit the idyllic Puu-Vallila area, famous for its old wooden houses dating back to the early 20th century. Take a walk in the Linnunlaulu area around the Töölönlahti Bay for Chekhovian moments. The beautiful villas in the area were built between the 1870’s and 1880’s. Discover Helsinki 73

A RT T E XT BY S U SA N N A PE TT E RSON Art treasures of the city The history and present state of Finnish art can be studied intimately in the various art museums, galleries and special collections in and around Helsinki. The city has an active art life with over 150 museums and art galleries – surely enough even for the most eager art lover. A HUNDRED YEARS ago, Finland’s artistic life was utterly different. Helsinki had just one art museum, the Ateneum, which had opened to the public in 1888, and was solely charged with meeting all the city’s artistic needs. It took several decades before a wider range of art galleries and alternative exhibition spaces emerged, the first serious contender being the Helsinki Kunsthalle, inaugurated in 1928. A r t t a k e s ro o t Finnish art is comparatively young. Prior to the eighteenth century, Finland did not have a single full-time professional artist. The first art school was only founded in 1846. Finnish art history has roots in religious work. From the Middle Ages, the church began to commission occasional works of art. Finland had no affluent élite to compare with that which provided employment to portraitists and other artists in Central Europe. The turning-point came in the early eighteenth century, when the fortress of Viapori was founded, leading to a large influx of Swedish officers to oversee the building works. Trade received a boost, enriching the local population, and there was an upsurge in the demand for portraits among the élite. Artists travelled all the way from Stockholm in search of work. Finnish art burgeoned forth in a variety of forms. 74 Discover Helsinki

Hugo Simberg (1873–1917) The Wounded Angel (1903) Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum Ahlström Collection HANNU AALTONEN / FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY Discover Helsinki 75

A RT Albert Edelfelt (1854–1905) The Luxembourg Gardens, Paris (1887) Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum Antell Collections HANNU AALTONEN / FINNISH NATIONAL GALLERY 76 Discover Helsinki

Painting was seen as an excellent means of serving nationalistic ends. From rococo to realism Profane, so-called free art, had its hesitant origin in Finland in the 18th century Isak Wacklin’s rococo portraits and in Nils Schillmark’s paintings, which employed the Neoclassical idiom. Elias Martin’s landscape paintings documenting the fortification of Viapori represent a unique curiosity from the same period. At the turn of the nineteenth century, Finnish artists absorbed influences from the Romantic movement, and began to produce soulful portraits as well as genre paintings that idealised nature. The most famous Romantic artists included Gustaf Wilhelm Finnberg, Alexander Lauréus and Robert Wilhelm Ekman. In 1809, when Finland was severed from Sweden and brought under Russian rule, the educated classes were divided into three groups: pro-Swedish, pro-Russian and pro-Finnish. Those who aligned themselves with the native country wanted Finland to have its own history and identity. Painting was seen as an excellent means of serving nationalistic ends. In the mid-nineteenth century, a handful of Finnish artists studied in Düsseldorf, and soon applied the lessons they had imbibed to the depiction of the ideal Finnish landscape. The most famous landscape painter of the Düsseldorf School in Finland was Werner Holmberg, whose career was cut short by tuberculosis. The Düsseldorf group also included a woman artist, Fanny Churberg, whose paintings evoked a mysterious country filled with harsh tracts of wilderness. The educated pro-Finnish contingency had a growing appetite for works of art. They now wanted historical paintings as well as idealised landscapes. It was decided that Albert Edelfelt, the most promising young artist studying at the Finnish Art Society’s drawing school, should be sent to Antwerp to study history painting. He duly painted a few historical subjects to satisfy his patrons, the most famous being Kuningatar Blanka (Queen Blanca, 1877), which is now in the Ateneum Art Museum. However, Edelfelt also felt drawn irresistibly to Paris, the centre of plein-air painting, where a colony of Nordic artists was forming. The so-called Parisian period began, and realism was launched in Finnish art. National fer vour and symbolism The plein-air method drove Finnish artists out among real subjects: the peasantry and genuine nature. Artists, who usually had an upper-class background, began to make excursions into the “original Finland” that was supposed to lie in the forest wilderness of Karelia. Landscape painting and realistic depictions of ordinary folk led to the development of National Romanticism, a movement which also pervaded literature, music and architecture. The most determined and undiluted National Romanticist was Akseli Gallen-Kallela, whose life’s ambition was to illustrate the entire Kalevala, Finland’s national epic. By Finnish standards, GallenKallela is something of a Renaissance artist, best known for his oil paintings and prints, but also a designer of stained-glass windows, furniture and textiles. He designed his own studio-home, as well as uniforms for the Finnish army, and a proposal for the Finnish flag. If the National Romantic movement focused on the soul of the people, Symbolism was preoccupied with the basic questions of human existence. Life and death were strongly present. Hugo Simberg gave death human embodiment, and his black-cloaked skeletons are among the best-loved figures in Finnish art. Magnus Enckell approached the central concerns of Symbolism through his ageless and universal studies of boys. However, there were also notable artists who worked outside the stylistic movements of their day. Helene Schjerfbeck deserves separate mention. Among the work she completed is a series of dozens self-portraits, which charts the course of her long life, from the self-assured face of youth to the elderly woman confronting death. Discover Helsinki 77

A RT Questions like nationalism in art are no longer relevant. Colour, power and the break-up of form In the early twentieth century anyone had at least a theoretical opportunity to study art, as students without means were admitted to the drawing school without fees. There were fears that the artistic community, once equated with the bourgeoisie, would become proletarian, endangering the Finnish national spirit. The reasons were plain: young, pro-Finnish artists kept a close eye on international developments. Impressionism, Expressionism and Cubism found northern echoes in Finnish studios. The new movements included Magnus Enckell’s colour painting school Septem, and the Expressionistic Novembrist Group led by Tyko Sallinen. Meanwhile, the Cubists were preoccupied with the idea and nature of form. After Finnish independence in 1917, the Surrealists began to put forward works which playfully subverted the laws of the visible world. In the years immediately after the Second World War, non-figurative art played a significant role in the construction of Finnish national identity. Finnish abstract art, industrial design and architecture helped to project an image of a modern nation that was looking to the future after the war. In the early 1960s, the non-figurative aesthetic was challenged by a whole artistic movement which went by the name of Informalism. Jaakko Sievänen, among others, filled his canvases with powerful, freely formed planes of flaming colour. Instead of traditional oil paint, the artist might use thick plaster, rags and sacking, as seen in the paintings of Ahti Lavonen, or cloths and scraps of paper, as in Anitra Lucander’s collages. Sculptors such as Eila Hiltunen made welded metal constructions, while Kain Tapper worked in wood and Ukri Merikanto used stone. The 1980s were dominated by ideas of the modern, postmodernism, and feminism, with strong painters like Marika Mäkelä, Marjatta Tapiola, and Leena Luostarinen. In the 1990s, increasing emphasis was laid on the relationship between the self and the surrounding society, crossover between the arts, and various technical concerns. Interest in the surrounding society brought art to the street level, tackling social questions like multiculturalism or poverty, as in the experimental works of Minna Heikinaho. Lately the most prominent Finnish artists have come from the field of video and photography. Filmmaker and video artist Eija-Liisa Ahtila’s triumphant career has focused the art world’s interest on the work of the younger generation. The rising stars include names like Salla Tykkä, Laura Horelli, and Liisa Lounila or photographer Elina Brotherus and installation artist Tea Mäkipää. All these are talented Finnish women for whom the entire world is their home. Questions like nationalism in art are no longer relevant. Now it’s all about art and nothing more. ••• 78 Discover Helsinki

S E LECT ION OF POPU L A R M U S E U MS AMOS ANDERSON ART MUSEUM Open: Tue, Thu 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed, Fri 11 a.m.– Large art museum in the centre of Helsinki. 7 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART KIASMA Admission: WeeGee ticket 12/10 €. Groups min 10 Kiasma breaks the boundaries of traditional art Yrjönkatu 27, 00100 Helsinki persons 10 € per person. Visitors under 18 and over museums and follows the latest trends in visual Tel. +358 (0)9 684 4460 70 free entry. Free admission for all on Fri 5 p.m.–7 p.m. culture. The museum is a part of the Finnish Open: Mon, Thu, Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Tue closed, www.emma.museum National Gallery. Admission: 12 €, seniors 8 €, students 2 €. HAM, HELSINKI ART MUSEUM Mannerheiminaukio 2, 00100 Helsinki Children under 18 free entry. The Helsinki Art Museum, HAM, looks after an art Tel. +358 (0)294 500 501, info@kiasma.fi www.amosanderson.fi collection that belongs to the people of Helsinki, Open: Tue 10 a.m.–5 p.m., Wed–Fri 10 a.m.–8.30 p.m., which includes over 9,000 works of art. HAM also Sat 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. houses an exhibition of Tove Jansson’s art. Admission: 14/12 €. Children under 18 free entry. Wed 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Sat–Sun 11 a.m.–5 p.m. ATENEUM ART MUSEUM The Ateneum Art Museum is the basic part of the Free entry on 1st Friday of the month. Finnish National Gallery and has the largest art Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 8, (Tennis Palace) Helsinki collections of the country. Tel. +358 (0)9 310 1051 www.kiasma.fi Kaivokatu 2, 00100 Helsinki Admission: 10/8 €. Children under 18 free entry. MUSEUM OF FINNISH ARCHITECTURE Tel. +358 (0)294 500 401, ainfo@ateneum.fi www.hamhelsinki.fi Changing exhibitions on Finnish and international Open: Tue–Sun 11–19, Mon closed Open: Tue, Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed, Thu 10 a.m.– architecture. Each summer a large show on a Finnish 8 p.m. Sat, Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. HELSINKI CITY MUSEUM Admission: adults 15 €. Children under 18 free entry. At Helsinki City Museum, visitors are whisked off www.ateneum.fi on a journey to discover Helsinki’s past. Entry to Kasarmikatu 24, 00130 Helsinki the museum is always free. Tel. +358 (0)9 8567 5100, mfa@mfa.fi DESIGN MUSEUM topic. Open: Tue–Sun 11 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Founded in 1873 as The Museum of Applied Arts, Aleksanterinkatu 16, 00170 Helsinki Admission: 10/5 €. Free entry on 1st Friday of the Design Museum is now an internationally Tel. +358 (0)9 3103 6630 month, for children under 18 & for school classes operating museum of design. Open: Mon–Wed, 11 a.m. –7 p.m. with a teacher. Sat–Sun 11 a.m. –5 p.m. www.mfa.fi Korkeavuorenkatu 23, 00130 Helsinki www.helsinginkaupunginmuseo.fi Tel. +358 (0)9 622 0540 SINEBRYCHOFF ART MUSEUM Open: Summertime open daily 11 a.m.–6 p.m. MANNERHEIM MUSEUM Admission: adults 10 €, pensioners 8 €, A museum depicting the life of Baron Gustaf old foreign masters and an interior museum. The students 5 €, children for free. Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867–1951). museum is a part of the Finnish National Gallery. www.designmuseum.fi Mannerheim’s home has been preserved almost in its original state. Finland’s most significant collection of paintings by Bulevardi 40, 00120 Helsinki EMMA - ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART / WEEGEE HOUSE Kalliolinnantie 14, (Kaivopuisto) Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)294 500 460 EMMA is among the largest art museums in Finland, Tel. +358 (0)9 635 443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi Open: Tue, Fri 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Wed, Thu 11 a.m.–8 with a permanent exhibition and changing domestic Open: Fri, Sat–Sun 11 a.m.– 4 p.m., other times by p.m., Sat–Sun 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon closed. and international exhibitions. EMMA is located in prior arrangement. the Exhibition Center WeeGee. Admission: adults 12 €, children under 12 free Admission: 12/10 €. Children under 18 free entry. entry, pensioners, students and groups of over Free admission on the first Wednesday of the month Ahertajantie 5, (Tapiola) 02100 Espoo 10 persons 10 € per person. at 5–8 p.m. Tel: +358 (0)43 827 0941, info@emma.museum www.mannerheim-museo.fi www.sinebrychoffintaidemuseo.fi Information during opening hours Discover Helsinki 79

63 62 Mannerheim Museum ALWAYS FREE ENTRY The former home of Baron G. Mannerheim, Marshal of Finland (1867-1951). Objects related to his life and the history of Finland. FALL IN LOVE WITH HELSINKI HELSINKI CITY MUSEUM Open: Friday, Saturday and Sunday 11 am–4 pm and by appointment. Kalliolinnantie 14, 00140 Helsinki tel: +358-9-635443, info@mannerheim-museo.fi www.mannerheim-museo.fi ALEKSANTERINKATU 16 | NEXT TO SENATE SQUARE MON–FRI 11–19 | SAT–SUN 11–17 | HELSINKICITYMUSEUM.FI Discover Helsinki 92x92mm_Asuntomessut 12.5.2016 11.17 Sivu 1 61 Finnish Aviation Museum This National special museum is situated close to Helsinki-Vantaa Airport and Aviapolis train station. Its collections open a window into the history of aviation in Finland. The Museum`s sensational services, simulators, meeting spaces, shop and a restaurant provide a magnificent setting for visits, various events and meetings. 60 World-class art and design in an unique architectural setting. EMMA - ESPOO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART EXHIBITION CENTRE WEEGEE Karhumäentie 12, 01530 Vantaa tel. (09) 8700 870, www.ilmailumuseo. AhertAjAntie 5, tApiolA emmA.museum #emmAmuseum mon. CloseD tue, thu 11Am—6pm, WeD 11Am—7pm, Fri 11Am—7pm (Free ADmission 5pm—7pm) sAt—sun 11Am—5pm

THE RE ARE N UME ROUS ART MUSEUMS AND GALLE RIES I N HELSI NKI WH ICH SPECIALISE I N DIFFE RENT AREAS, FROM OLD ART TO CONTEMPORARY WORK AMA Gallery Rikhardinkatu 1 www.ama.fi Gallery Forsblom Lönnrotinkatu 5 / Yrjönkatu 22 www.galerieforsblom.com Kirpilä Art Collection Pohjoinen Hesperiankatu 7, 6th floor www.taidekotikirpila.fi Collection Lauri and Lasse Reitz Apollonkatu 23 B 64 www.reitz.fi Gallery G Pieni Roobertinkatu 10 www.taidegraafikot.fi Kunsthalle Helsinki Nervanderinkatu 3 www.taidehalli.fi Collection Päivikki and Sakari Sohlberg Kauppiaankatu 11 A 7, (by appointment only) www.pss-saatio.fi Gallery Heino Uudenmaankatu 16–20 www.galleriaheino.fi Make Your Mark Garage / Gallery Kaasutehtaankatu 1 (building 6) www.makeyourmark.fi Didrichsen Art Museum Kuusilahdenkuja 1 www.didrichsenmuseum.fi/eng/ Gallery Huuto Tyynenmerenkatu 6, Uudenmaankatu 35 www.galleriahuuto.net MUU Kaapeli Tallberginkatu 1 C 97 www.kaapelingalleria.fi www.muu.fi Finnish Aviation Museum Karhumäentie 12, Vantaa www.ilmailumuseo.fi Gallery Kajaste Bulevardi 32 www.galleriakajaste.fi Forum Box Ruoholahdenranta 3 A www.forumbox.fi Helsinki Contemporary Bulevardi 10 www.helsinkicontemporary.com Galleria Bronda Annankatu 16 www.bronda.fi Gallery Laterna Magica Rauhankatu 7 www.laterna.net Galleria Dix Uudenmaankatu 19 www.galleriadix.fi Gallery Katariina Kalevankatu 16 www.helsingintaiteilijaseura.fi Galleria FAFA Lönnrotinkatu 35 www.kuva.fi Gallery Luova.fi Suvilahdenkatu 10 A, 5th floor www.luova.fi Galleria Lapinlahti Lapinlahdentie 1 www.gallerialapinlahti.com Gallery Sculptor Eteläranta 12 www.sculptors.fi Galerie Anhava Fredrikinkatu 43 www.anhava.com Gallery Sinne Iso Roobertinkatu 16 www.sinne.proartibus.fi Gallery Alkovi Helsinginkatu 19 www.alkovi.linnake.net Glass Gallery Mafka&Alakoski Iso Roobertinkatu 19 www.mafka.fi www.karialakoski.com Photographic Gallery Hippolyte Yrjönkatu 8–10 www.hippolyte.fi Suomenlinna Museum Suomenlinna C 40 www.suomenlinna.fi/en/visitor/museums The Finnish Museum of Photography Tallberginkatu I G www.valokuvataiteenmuseo.fi The Gallen-Kallela Museum Gallen-Kallelan tie 27, Espoo www.gallen-kallela.fi The National Museum of Finland Mannerheimintie 34 www.kansallismuseo.fi Tm Galleria / Finnish Painter’s Union Erottajankatu 9 B www.painters.fi Villa Gyllenberg Kuusisaarenpolku 11 www.villagyllenberg.fi Discover Helsinki 81

The city centre is filled with people and events during the city festivals. >>> T E XT BY AU LI RÄSÄN E N MU S IC LAURI ROTKO / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Reason to make a song and dance For a city of only half a million inhabitants, Helsinki enjoys a remarkably rich mix of cultural fare, offering the sort of variety available in the large European or North American metropolises.  Tip! Helsinki Festival, the largest arts festival in Finland, aims at making art accessible to all. 82 Discover Helsinki IN HELSINKI, shows in general are well-attended; the most popular theatre and opera productions are sold out for months in advance. With good reason, Helsinki can be described as an important cultural meeting-point. Not surprisingly, the cultural fare is concentrated in indoor venues and during the cold, dark time of the year, since sunshine and rising temperatures prompt the locals to head for their summer cottages or – perversely – to take off abroad for holidays. Summer time delights All the same, there are things going on in Helsinki even during the summer months. The Helsinki Festival (August 17th–Sebtember 3rd, 2017) was put into the late August / early September slot precisely because the seaside town is then enjoying the warm, dusky evenings of late summer, a time of crayfish parties and yacht regattas. The two-week Helsinki Festival, with its concerts, dance and theatre productions, and art shows, is dotted around the entire city. One immensely popular tradition at the Festival is “Art Goes Kapakka” (kapakka = pub, local), in which artists strut their stuff in downtown restaurants and watering-holes. Having brightened Helsinki’s August nights since 1995, the festival continues to delight with multisensory art.

MU S IC The National Opera and Ballet celebrates the centenary of Finland’s independence in 2017. Helsinki Chamber Music Festival (July 4th–6th, 2017) is an interesting newcomer in the Helsinki festival scene. It brings classical music to the historical city centre with three days of high quality concerts in idyllic settings. The youngest and most visible happening is URB, an independent urban youth gathering. This particular event, with a strong leaning towards street arts and dance, is held a few weeks before the festival proper (August 2nd–10th, 2017). It also invites in schoolkids during their summer vacation for breakdance courses and graffiti workshops. During the summer the theatres and symphony orchestras that have been active throughout the winter and spring seasons are also officially on vacation, but every year the fortress island of Suomenlinna serves tourists and the Helsinki locals with theatre productions, concerts, exhibitions, and restaurant soirées. Opera for a song The Finnish National Opera located on the shores of Töölönlahti Bay, has around 500 employees with an 80-strong ballet company and a 110-member orchestra. The National Ballet is a highclass ensemble and its repertoire provides a mix of classical and contemporary works. Opera in Finland has shrugged off its elitist label, since it would be hard to find another country anywhere in the world where around 30 new operas have been composed in the last three decades. The opera and ballet seasons continue until the beginning of June and the new round starts again in August. Tickets for both genres are generally cheaper in Finland than in Central Europe, as the government subsidises the National Opera’s activities very generously. The National Opera and Ballet celebrates the centenary of Finland’s independence in 2017 with performances created and performed by top Finnish artists. There will also be two world premieres of Finnish works in 2017: the opera Autumn Sonata and the ballet extravaganza Kalevalanmaa, a major effort that will be premiered in November. Music for the masses From the Opera House, if you continue down the main thoroughfare Mannerheimintie in the direction of the city centre, you will come across Finlandia Hall. This large white marble-clad edifice is a concert (1,700 seats in the main auditorium) and congress hall, with the concert wing designed in 1971 by Alvar Aalto. Aalto was indisputably a great architect, but he paid scant heed to his acoustic experts. As a consequence the large auditorium has a rather dry sound, and is not overly popular with local orchestras. 84 Discover Helsinki

Alvar Aalto was also responsible for the red-brick Kulttuuritalo (Cultural Hall) built originally for the Finnish Communist Party in 1958. Here the acoustics are a good deal more satisfactory, though the building is slightly smaller, with seating for just under 1,400. In any event, both these venues now have a serious rival with the new Music Centre situated on the prime site facing the Parliament Building. The Music Centre has excellent acoustic solutions designed by a top Japanese designer. The Music Centre houses both of the city’s big resident symphony orchestras – the Helsinki Philharmonic and the Finnish Radio Symphony – and the country’s music university, the Sibelius Academy of the University of the Arts. One of the highlights of the music year 2017 is a concert by the joint symphony orchestra formed by the students of the Sibelius Academy and the world-famous Juilliard School of music in New York. The concert is part of the Finland 100 celebrations. Cosy and contemporary venues The atmospheric Alexander Theatre on Bulevardi 23–27 was the home of the Finnish National Opera from 1917 until 1993. The Alexander Theatre is a former Russian garrison theatre with a smallish 473-seat auditorium. It is also a busy dance centre, providing a platform for many of Finland’s top contemporary dance troupes, including the Tero Saarinen Company and Nomadi Productions. The stage is also as a venue for small operatic groups like the Finnish Chamber Opera. The Zodiak Center for New Dance is a contemporary dance community that has taken up home in Kaapelitehdas (“The Cable Factory” – which is what it once was), located in the suburb of Ruoholahti. Zodiak produces the work of progressive young choreographers and more than a dozen independent dance groups. The Savoy Theatre, just off the Esplanade and not far from the Market Square, has developed into a popular stage for ethnic music and dance productions. The cosy Savoy is also popular with smallscale modern circus troupes and drama companies. Helsinki’s most popular concert church is Temppeliaukio Church (1969), often referred to as “The Church in the Rock”, since it occupies a depression quarried into a granite outcrop and covered with a 25-metre circular copper dome and steel-framed skylight windows. ••• URBAN FESTIVALS IN HELSINKI Although a large number of Finnish music festivals take place place in Helsinki on June 30th–July 2nd. The festival celebrates its 20th outside the capital, there are still some interesting festivals in the anniversary in 2017. central Helsinki area. >> www.tuska-festival.fi/en Flow Festival, the hippest festival in Finland, takes place on August Oh, don’t we all love the dance pop of the 90’s with its catchy 11th–13th, 2017, in the historic power plant area of Suvilahti in tunes. Go and see yourself. We Love The 90’s Festival takes places in central Helsinki. The past few years the event has pulled record Suvilahti on August 25th–26th, 2017. Among the stars on stage there crowds, with some 60,000 eager party-goers. The line-up this year are Aqua and E-type. includes Lana Del Rey and Aphex Twin. >> www.flowfestival.com/en The World Village festival brings music, dance and theatre to Kaisaniemi, Helsinki, May 27th–28th, 2017. The event is open to all and In late June, you’ll see long-haired people wearing black promises to offer world views and possibilities on top of the various everywhere. It’s time for the Tuska Open Air Metal Festival, the music genres, art and circus performances. largest metal-related music festival in the Nordic countries taking >> www.maailmakylassa.fi/english/home Discover Helsinki 85

The Swimming Stadium is open every day during the summer months. >>> T E XT BY A NT E RO RAEVUO R I S PO RT KOPTERCAMERA OY / CITY OF HELSINKI Helsinki – Sporty daughter of the Baltic Helsinki offers a lot to see and do for a sport-minded visitor. Both the active athletic and the spectator sportsman can find various attractions. THE OLYMPIC STADIUM in Helsinki was completed in 1938, as Finland was meant to host the 1940 Olympic Games. The outbreak of the Second World War led to the cancellation of the Games, but the building works were eventually completed in time for Helsinki to host the Olympics in 1952. Venues for record-breaking A number of other sports facilities were completed with the Olympics in mind in the 1930s, including the Rowing Stadium and the Velodrome. With their elegantly straightforward construction and white exteriors, these facilities exemplify the Zeitgeist of the 1930s, with its mass events and cult of the body. Behind the Olympic Stadium is the open-air Swimming Stadium, which was also used in the 1952 Helsinki Olympics. The stadium is designed in the Functionalist style and has been listed as a significant example of modern architecture. It is open to the public from early May to late September. Just a five-minute walk from the stadium is the Eläintarha (Zoological Gardens) athletics track, now used mainly for training and warm-up purposes. Here, in June 1924, a small piece of running history was made, when Paavo Nurmi, the greatest Olympian of the time, calmly broke the world records for the 1500 metres and the 5000 metres – in the space of the same hour. He set a total of 29 world records in his career. Nearby, too, are Helsinki’s old Ice Hall (still in regular use) and the larger Hartwall Areena, both of them ice hockey arenas. 86 Discover Helsinki

88 Discover Helsinki

The Nature Centre brings all of Finland’s nature under one roof. Icemen and oth er stars Although ice hockey is Finland’s most popular spectator sport, the country’s internationally best known sporting superstars are nevertheless more likely to be found on four wheels or skis than on ice. If Finnish hockey players reach hero status, then they are much more likely to be playing in the NHL in North America. Among the best-known Finnish ice hockey players are Saku Koivu and Teemu Selänne, both recently retired. Rally drivers like Valtteri Bottas and the former World Champions Kimi ‘Iceman’ Räikkönen and Mika Häkkinen. Finland also boasts some snowboarding stars including World Championship winners and medalists Antti Autti, and Markku Koski, and Olympic silver medalists Enni Rukajärvi and Peetu Piiroinen. Go spor ting In addition to sporting sights, Helsinki offers visitors a variety of ways of taking some exercise. The Swimming Stadium mentioned earlier is a summer magnet for swimmers and sun-worshippers alike. Although the grassy open area around the pool is quite large, space starts to be at a premium on hot July days. In winter, there are several indoor swimming pools around the city. Helsinki is a green city. A third of the city area consists of parks and other green areas. The fashionable district of Kaivopuisto is home to the embassies of several nations and also boasts a handsome park. The road that winds around the edge of Kaivopuisto by the seafront is a favourite with rollerbladers and joggers in the summer. During the summer months, there are often free or cheap outdoor workouts in Kaivopuisto, too. Canoeing and kayaking can be enjoyed in Helsinki’s many sheltered bays. The now trendy SUP-ing can be enjoyed on several spots along the shoreline of the city. One of the most central places is at Töölönlahti Bay in the very heart of Helsinki, only a ten-minute walk from the central railway station. Hiking and rambling in the woods is also an option. Although Helsinki is the capital city, one does not have to travel far to find completely unspoilt areas, such as the Nuuksio National Park in neighbouring Espoo. You will also find the Finnish Nature Centre Haltia at Nuuksio. The Nature Centre brings all of Finland’s nature under one roof and closer to the visitor. Nature Days 2017 (www.luonnonpaivat.fi) is part of the Finland 100 centenary programme, inspiring people to explore the nature together. The campaign consists of four Nature Days full of events for everyone. If you are unwilling to leave the city, you could try Nordic walking, a sport developed in Finland. It is, basically, walking with two poles similar to ski poles. Nordic Fitness Sports Park has equipment rental and great grounds and trails for various sports. You’ll find the park next door to the Olympic Stadium. Download or print the new Urban Nature brochure from visithelsinki.fi that lists the areas of interest and various outdoor activities in the city area. In winter, you can go skating in the middle of the city! There is a skating rink at Rautatientori next to the railway station, and another in Kallio, a few tram stops away from the centre. You can also go cross-country skiing a few kilometres off the city centre at Paloheinä. The area has several kilometres of skiing tracks and a ski rental shop. Helsinki even boasts a year-round indoor skiing hall, Kivikon hiihtohalli (Savikiekontie 4). More detailed information on a range of outdoor activities and on equipment rentals can be had from the Helsinki City Tourist and Convention Bureau website at www.hel.fi/tourism. ••• <<< The Nuuksio National Park is a lovely, unspoilt spot just a short drive away from Helsinki. AKU PÖLLÄNEN / VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK Discover Helsinki 89

The Aalto Vase (also known as the Savoy Vase) is a world famous piece of glassware and an iconic piece of Finnish design created by Alvar Aalto and his wife Aino. >>> DE S IG N T E X T BY J O H A N N A LU H TA L A VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK Finnish design During the past 150 years design has shaped Finnish culture and national identity. Finnish design is known for clean lines, practicality and timeless minimalism, although young designers can be surprisingly playful. Helsinki has been awarded City of Design status for using design in order to build a better city. THE FAMOUS Finnish design had its significant starting point at the turn of the 20th century – in art nouveau – when the architecture, the visual arts, and the applied arts lay at the heart of the burgeoning national culture. Key designers were architects such as Herman Gesellius, Armas Lindgren, and Eliel Saarinen, partners, who designed Helsinki railway station and the National Museum, and multi-talented artists like Akseli Gallen-Kallela. At the 1900 Paris World Exposition, Finland mounted its own national pavilion for the first time and attracted wide attention. Examples of the applied arts included furniture by Akseli GallenKallela, along with his ryijy rug, entitled Flame, a pioneering work of Finnish textile design. The Iris ceramics factory exhibited wares made out of Finnish red-burning clay designed in an Art Nouveau idiom. Enduring classics of Modernism The earliest and still working companies in the field of the applied arts were the Arabia ceramics factory (founded in 1873), and Nuutajärvi glass factory (founded in 1794). In 1928 Riihimäen Lasi organised a glass design competition. The winning designer, Henry Ericsson already shows the clean lines of modernism. 90 Discover Helsinki

DE S IG N The work of the 1930s, from furniture and everyday wares to graphic design, was characterised by natural use of materials, unadorned surfaces, and bright primary colours. The young architect Alvar Aalto was particularly responsive to the modern rigours of Functionalism and designed light bentwood chairs, tables and shelves that became enduring classics of Modernism. In 1935 the Artek Company was set up in Helsinki, to produce and disseminate Aalto’s furniture, which had become popular abroad. The company is still going strong. Today, the Artek collection includes products by other designers as well. Together with his wife Aino, Alvar Aalto was also an important glass designer. In 1932 Aino Aalto designed her Aalto glassware series, and in 1936 Alvar Aalto created his Savoy vase, by far the bestknown example of Finnish design internationally. Another modern classic by Alvar Aalto is the Artek Stool 60, a three-legged stool that has been copied endlessly. Aalto’s life and art is celebrated in a comprehensive exhibition at the Ateneum art museum in 2017. The exhibition is part of the programme for the centenary of Finland’s independence. The heyday of ar t glass Kuplat, designed by Yki Nummi, is a Finish design classic dating back to 1959. SAKKE SOMERMA / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK 92 Discover Helsinki Handicraft skills and traditional materials became important during and immediately after the Second World War, when there was a shortage of materials. Among the central figures of the 1940s were the interior designer Ilmari Tapiovaara and the glass designer Gunnel Nyman. Tapiovaara was a pioneer in the field of ergonomic seating design. Famous example is his Domus chair from 1947. During her short career Gunnel Nyman (1909–1948) designed a series of art objects of glass that pre-echoed the heyday of art glass in the 1950s. With the resurgence of industrial production in the 1950s, design suddenly took on a central role in Finnish cultural life. Glass design, particularly art glass, rose to prominence. Tapio Wirkkala, Timo Sarpaneva, Nanny Still, Saara Hopea and Kaj Franck designed highquality glassware in a streamlined modern idiom. The textile industry recovered and responded to the strong post war demand for fabrics. Traditional ryijy rugs were designed in increasingly rich colours, and absorbed influence from abstract painting. Major expositions such as the Milan Triennial gave Finnish design a place in the international limelight. Finland garnered major prizes in several years, and the victorious designers were lionised like Olympic champions in the press.

A new phenomenon in Finnish glass is numerous studio glass artists and glassblowers creating their art in small hot shops. Glass Gallery Mafka & Alakoski represents fresh designs and the art of Finnish contemporary glass in the city centre. P l a s t i c , f i b re g l a s s a n d t e x t i l e s The 1960s saw a strong backlash against the cult of the individual designer. Suddenly, the design professional was to produce anonymous, universal objects instead of exclusive art objects. New materials such as plastic and fibreglass posed novel challenges and facilitated, for instance, wider and faster furniture production. Eero Aarnio’s eye-catching fibreglass chairs, Pallo and Pastilli, illustrated the possibilities offered by the new materials. Even now well into his 80s, Eero Aarnio is still actively creating new designs, including lamps and a children’s collection. The orange scissors by Fiskars are another Finnish design classic that was born in the 1960’s. The ergonomic scissors are now sold all over the world. They are a great example of Finnish functional design. The scissors have registered sales of more than one billion. The textile and clothes company Marimekko, founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia, won popularity with the glowing printed fabrics, jolly Tasaraita jersey cloths, and liberal ideals. The dreams of the 1960’s were shattered by the 1973 oil crisis. Henceforth, increasing emphasis was placed on the constructive social role of designers. Handicrafts collectives and ceramic workshops were set up in empty schools and factories. Meanwhile, the profile of industrial design was raised by a generation of newly graduated designers specially trained in the field. Key concepts included “ergonomics” and “design for need”. Postmodernism and recycling The 1980s saw the breakthrough of international postmodernism in Finland and elsewhere. All the styles and movements of the twentieth century were freely reworked and juxtaposed, resulting in superficial, sensationalist design, but also in joyful and daring new departures. Several young designers were discovered in the late 1980s. The versatile Stefan Lindfors in particular has won wide acclaim. Two trends may be discerned in the design of the 1980’s and 1990s: experimental art handicraft which is moving closer to the visual arts, and design that utilises recycled materials and information technology, often in a commercial vein. In the 1990’s data communications technology, and especially mobile phones comprised an important part of the industrial production of Finland. Nokia’s mobile phones have, as never before, exported Finnish know-how around the world. Young fashion designers The interest in the history of Marimekko has grown steadily, indicated also by the exhibitions and publications. Maija Louekari is one of the company’s hot new designers with joyful, colourful textile prints and tableware design. In the fashion business the retro-boom has brought young designers to the field. Paola Suhonen designs for her IVANAHelsinki label, which was the first Nordic fashion house to have its own show in Paris Fashion Week main show, and Suhonen was the first Finnish designer to feature at New York Fashion Week. Paola Suhonen has 77 Mouth blown & handmade glass Galleria Mafka&Alakoski is a gallery & shop focusing on new Finnish glass. The gallery has changing exhibitions and the shop offers a great selection of mouth blown, handmade glass items for both interior decoration and everyday use. Gallery is located in a heart of Punavuori area within a walking distance from the city centre and is a member of the Design District Helsinki. Free entry to all exhibitions. Galleria Mafka&Alakoski Iso Roobertinkatu 19, Helsinki Tue-Fri 11-18, Sat 11-16 www.mafka-alakoski.fi You are very welcome to visit the glass studio in Riihimäki too! Contact +358 40 554 9939, marja.hepoaho@mafka.fi

DE S IG N Several young designers were discovered in the late 1980’s. also done print and concept designing for various companies like Google, Canon, HP Sauce, Swarovski and Coca Cola. New classics The furniture manufacturing has started to produce models by young designers, such as Sari Anttonen’s Kiss-chair for Piiroinen and Samuli Naamanka’s Clash-chair for Martela. The multitalented Harri Koskinen has designed a wide range of products including tableware, furniture, lighting, watches, and textiles. He earned international renown in 1996 with the Block lamp which has become a modern design classic, now part of MoMa’s collection. His clients include Alessi, MUJI, Swarowski and Issey Miyake. Fo l k l o re a n d m a g i c The past few years have seen the rise of Finnish illustrators. The hottest names now include Sanna Annukka, whose colourful work uses Finnish folkloristic themes. You may have seen her work in products by Marimekko, Mark&Spencer’s and Vogue. The Amsterdam-based Kustaa Saksi has designed illustrations for Jennifer Lopez’s Justsweet fashion brand and Issey Miyake’s A-Poc, and has worked for brands like Adidas, Microsoft, Diesel and Lacoste. Designer Lotta Nieminen was selected by Forbes on the “30 under 30” list of young talents. Her clients include Hermès, The New York Times, Volkswagen, Google and Newsweek. Artist and designer Klaus Haapaniemi has been busy for the past few years. Best known for his dishware collections Taika (Magic) and Satumetsä (Storytale forest) for Iittala, he also has designed garment prints and furniture, worked in fashion and books, and planned exhibitions and events such as the pop-up restaurant Hel Yes. Haapaniemi has also designed the visual concept for the opera The cunning little vixen. ••• READY FOR FINNISH DESIGN? A good starting-point to see Finnish design is the Design Design X Finland (Unioninkatu 27) is devoted to the best of Finnish Museum (Korkeavuorenkatu 23), one of the earliest in its design. They sell an excellent selection of smaller Finnish design field in Europe. The museum has a collection of Finnish and brands. foreign design, including fashion, industrial design and graphic design. See www.designmuseum.fi for more information. Lokal (Annankatu 9) is a concept store that showcases the works of Finnish artists and designers. The shop places strong The annual Helsinki Design Week importance on the timeless value of handmade items. (September 7 –17 , 2017) is the largest design festival in the th th Nordic countries. The multidisciplinary festival presents design For a more intensive introduction to design, join a guided tour to the from a number of fields. Design District. See www.designtourshelsinki.com for more information. 94 Discover Helsinki

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S HOPPI NG Helsinki is a shopping paradise for design lovers. >>> T E XT BY H E LI-M A R IA W I I K JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Shop ‘til you drop in Helsinki Shopping in the centre of Helsinki is a pleasant experience, since the department stores and small design boutiques are all located within convenient walking distance. The best-stocked shopping streets in the downtown area are Mannerheimintie, Aleksanterinkatu, Kaisaniemenkatu, Iso Roobertinkatu, the two Esplanades (Pohjoisesplanadi and Eteläesplanadi, divided by the park), Bulevardi, and Fredrikinkatu. Opening Hours Department stores, many chain stores and the large supermarkets are normally open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Friday, and from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturdays, and from 11 a.m. or noon to 6 p.m. on Sundays. Depar tment stores The department stores in the heart of the downtown area are Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52 B, on the corner of Mannerheimintie, and with access from Keskuskatu and Pohjoisesplanadi), Sokos (Mannerheimintie 9), and Aleksi13 (Aleksanterinkatu 13). If your time for shopping is restricted, then Stockmann and its immediate environs on Aleksanterinkatu and Mannerheimintie is a sensible choice. The imposing edifice of the Stockmann store contains within its several floors a comprehensive selection of Finnish fashion and design articles. The cosmetics department on the ground floor has for instance the flagship outlet for the renowned Finnish cosmetics manufacturer Lumene. The store also has an extensive array of products by Finnish brand names such as Fiskars, Iittala and Arabia, and souvenirs from Finland can be found in abundance. Stockmann’s 96 Discover Helsinki

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S HOPPI NG basement contains the Herkku food market and delicatessen, with an assortment that will satisfy the needs of even the most demanding culinary buff. Renowned for high quality, jeweller’s Esko Lindroos Oy serves customers on the seventh floor of Stockmann. The extensive selection includes jewellery and diamonds of the highest quality, watches, and Finnish and international top brands. Next door to Stockmann on the other side of Keskuskatu is Academic Bookstore (Akateeminen Kirjakauppa), located in a building designed by the celebrated architect Alvar Aalto. The bookstore is one of Europe’s largest, and has Helsinki’s most comprehensive assortment of foreign-language literature and a large press section. An underground passageway links the two establishments, or you can just step across the street. Shopping Malls Should you want to shop and spend some time indoors, then the 150 outlets of the Kamppi Center (Urho Kekkosenkatu 1) offer a perfect opportunity under one roof. If you are looking for fashion, designer brands, sportswear and sports equipment, or products for teens and young adults, then they can all be found conveniently in here. Forum (Mannerheimintie 20) is a modern classic. It offers shoppers several floors of stores, cafés, and restaurants. Forum has an exceptional selection of jewellery, fashion and children’s clothing stores. Stylish shoppers might well want to browse the Finnish fashion store Marimekko, while Moomin fans should check out the Moomin Shop for products based on author Tove Jansson’s endearing characters. In May 2017, Forum was recognized by the Nordic Council of Shopping Centers (NCSC) as the Best Shopping Center in the Nordic countries. This is the first time the title has come to Finland. Last year, the NCSC selected Forum as Finland’s Best Shopping Center. Thanks to a successful renovation, Forum is now bigger, brighter and better than ever – with more fashion, leisure and dining options for shoppers. Galleria Esplanad is another newish mall, located below the luxurious Kämp Hotel, with entrances from Pohjoisesplanadi and Mikonkatu. As well as branded designer goods from familiar international names, Galleria Esplanad houses the Marimekko store. Also here is the Tarsala Creation shoe store. Designer Juha Tarsala is known around the world for his exclusive Italianmade shoes for women. Kluuvi Shopping Centre (Aleksanterinkatu 9) has about 35 businesses, including several sports stores. The shopping centre offers a mix of interesting international brand stores, Finnish retail concepts and restaurants. Outside the centre of town, there are a number of large entertainment and shopping complexes reachable by public transportation, such as Itis (the largest shopping mall in the Nordic region, located on the Helsinki Metro in the eastern suburbs), Sello (in Espoo, by the Leppävaara rail station), Iso Omena (Matinkylä in Espoo), the newly extended Jumbo (in Vantaa, close to HelsinkiVantaa Airport) and the newish Kaari (Kannelmäki in western Helsinki). The malls in the Helsinki area, as in anywhere in the world, are their own shopping microworlds. They are mainly occupied by the big chain stores. 98 Discover Helsinki

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S HOPPI NG T h e E s p l a n a d e s a n d t h e i r c ro s s s t re e t s The two Esplanades, running west from the Market Square and the South Harbour, act as a magnet for fashion and design outlets: Marimekko (Mikonkatu 1) is a world-class Finnish brand, founded in 1951 by Armi Ratia. The brand is particularly known for the bold and distinctive textile designs drawn by Maija Isola, such as Unikko, Kaivo, and Lokki. In the early 1960s, Marimekko was in the international trend vanguard, when style icon Jackie Kennedy took a liking to the Mari prints. Artek (Keskuskatu 1 B) is another internationally recognized quality design brand, founded in 1935. One of the founders was architect Alvar Aalto, one of the pre-eminent names in modern architecture. Aalto’s timeless designs and a rigorous attention to quality have kept Artek furniture and fittings in demand around the world for more than 70 years. A few years ago Artek started to collect old Aalto chairs from flea markets and wanted to give these classics a new lease on life. Artek 2nd Cycle (Pieni Roobertinkatu 4–6) sells these iconic second-hand chairs and vintage classics by designers like Charles and Ray Eames, Ilmari Tapiovaara and Arne Jacobsen. The Iittala Group is a leading homeware design firm and a pioneering name in modern Scandinavian design. The company’s roots lie in the Iittala Glassworks, where the world-famous Aalto vases are blown (design by Alvar Aalto). The Iittala store is at Pohjoisesplanadi 25 also the place for top-quality Hackman cookware and cutlery, and the design gift items and tableware from Arabia (for instance Kaj Frank’s Teema collection). Nanso is a popular Finnish clothing line. These days it is particularly known for its young designers. Nanso is also a trailblazer in ethical, sustainable fashion, through its Fair Trade cotton collection. The Nanso store is at Mikonkatu 2. Vuokko (Korkeavuorenkatu 4) is a clothing brand founded by the celebrated Finnish textile and garment designer Vuokko Eskolin-Nurmesniemi. Vuokko’s clothes represent the classic Finnish design idiom. Before setting up her own company, Eskolin-Nurmesniemi was one of the front-line designers with Marimekko. Kalevala Koru / Lapponia Jewelry (Pohjoisesplanadi 25–27) design and manufacture bold and yet timeless jewellery items leaning heavily on Finnish culture and the national epic, Kalevala. The shop is located at a renovated historical block between the Market square and the Senate square. Aarikka’s (Pohjoisesplanadi 27) design is famous for its clear Scandinavian lines, round forms and use of wood as primary material. Aarikka presents two seasonal collections of both home design and beautiful handmade jewellery. Boutique Kaarina K. is an outlet specialising in the top names in international fashion for women (such as Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Cartier, and Versace), and is located at Kasarmikatu 25. Louis Vuitton opened up a magnificent emporium in Helsinki a few years ago, on the corner of Pohjoisesplanadi and Mikonkatu. The LV-monogrammed bags and trunks of this French luxury fashion and leather goods name are known all over the world. For luxury eyewear, try Alain Mikli Boutique (Mikonkatu 2). The shop offers “frames to see as wells as to be seen”, as their slogan goes. 100 Discover Helsinki

76 NORDIC SHOPPING CENTER OF THE YEAR 2017 FORUM

S HOP PI NG Design district Design District Helsinki is a large cluster of stores, restaurants and more, with creativity as the common factor aside from their location, spreading out from the hub of the Diana Park in Erottaja, at the south end of Mannerheimintie, extending in all directions from the park. The DDH blocks embrace some 25 streets and 170 stores, from jewellery workshops to tapas bars, from galleries to clothing shops and design agencies and interior architects, and even a couple of boutique hotels. There is no precise boundary to the area, and DDH is a kind of work in progress, living all the while. The places are easy to spot by the circular black “Design District” logo on the street doors. Fashionistas should check out Paola Suhonen’s IVANAhelsinki store (Uudenmaankatu 15), the Katri Niskanen shop (Bulevardi 15) and fashion designer Ilona Pelli’s shop (Tarkk’ampujankatu 1). Samuji (Erottajankatu 9 B) is one of Finland’s most successful fashion brands. Samuji’s highquality garments represent a simple practicality. Shoe designer Minna Parikka’s shop at Aleksanterinkatu 36 is a wonderland for women who love super-feminine, high-heeled shoes. Parikka’s shoes are often playful and seductive and have a retro feel. Fredrikinkatu, familiarly known as ”Freda”, is one of the Design District Helsinki shopping streets, and along both sides of its impressive length there are dozens of small boutiques selling fashionwear and home decoration items. Check out Casuarina (Fredrikinkatu 30) for timeless east-meets-west furniture, Pino (Fredrikinkatu 22) for the most charming small things or Peroba (Fredrikinkatu 33) for industrial style with a twist. It is also worth exploring the streets that branch off Fredrikinkatu. Bulevardi, for instance, is a great location for art galleries and antique shops, and where Bulevardi meets the sea at Hietalahti there is a large and bustling flea-market in the summer months. See the boxed text on page 104 for more information. E xplore your hip side Kallio and Hakaniemi represent Helsinki’s young, hip and urban side. The area has been ranked as one of the 20 most hipster neighbourhoods in the world. The streets round here have a lot of small design and vintage/retro shops. One interesting walking-route is to head along Porthaninkatu towards Karhupuisto (”Bear Park” in English, and yes, there is a red granite sculpture of a bear, as well as a delightful kiosk café in the summer), and then through the park to Helsinginkatu. Kallio has treasures for those who keep their eyes open! Along the way it is worth stopping off at Ansa (Agricolankatu 5), a little boutique that specialises in second-hand, vintage, and recycled and “redesigned” clothes, and then just around the corner at Tapettitalo (Fleminginkatu 4), with a collection of 2,000 design wallpapers, for instance by Finnish designers Maaria Wirkkala and Ilmari and Annikki Tapiovaara. A few doors down you’ll find another delightful vintage store, Fargo Vintage, at Fleminginkatu 20. 102 Discover Helsinki

81 LU M I S U P E R M A R K E T – F l a g s h i p B o u t i q u e L E LU M I L A B – C o n c e p t S t o r e Aleksanterinkatu 28, 00170 Helsinki Pursimiehenkatu 14, 00150 Helsinki Te l . + 3 5 8 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 3 4 8 8 7 1 Te l . + 3 5 8 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 3 4 8 8 7 0 W W W. L U M I A C C E S S O R I E S . C O M Discover Helsinki 103

S HOP PI NG Organic food is very trendy in Finland at the moment. Quite nearby at Kaarlenkatu 12 Wanha Kaarle sells colourful design from the 1950–70’s. Taste Finland The Market Square occupies a great site in the South Harbour at the eastern end of the two Esplanades. The market sells Finnish delicacies like crisp tiny muikku or vendace (from the salmon family), loimulohi or “blazed” salmon cooked over an open fire, and berries in season, like Arctic cloudberries, and of course strawberries galore. See the next article for further information on traditional Finnish food. There are also plenty of stalls selling handicrafts and souvenirs. On a fine day, it is worth dropping in for coffee at one of the market’s tented cafés. Many of the locals will be doing likewise, and tucking in to sticky jam doughnuts or a hot meat pie. A few steps from the open-air market is the Old Market Hall (Wanha Kauppahalli), which is a big draw for gourmet shoppers. The market has undergone renovation recently. There is now a restaurant by Michelin-level chefs and pastry chefs. Browse the hall for Finnish delicacies such as rye bread or cold-smoked salmon or go for international flavours. This is a good place to fill your picnic basket for a daytrip to Suomenlinna. You can also try the open-air market and the market hall at Hakaniemi (metrostation Hakaniemi or trams 1, 3, 6, 7 and 9 from the city centre) that have food to please all palates, from truffle salami and fresh fish to vegetarian specialities and ecological food. The ground floor of the market hall is a gourmand’s paradise while the first floor gives home to several crafts, paperware and souvenir shops. They also run a popular flea market on summer Sundays. Organic food is very trendy in Finland at the moment. One of the best places to shop is Ruohonjuuri (Keskuskatu 6 / City-käytävä or Salomonkatu 5, next to the Kamppi shopping centre), an ecoshop with a large selection of organic products. Located a 10-minute walk away from the city centre, Anton&Anton (Museokatu 19) is well worth the walk. The stylish shop sells organic food by local producers and some of the coolest international eco brands. For those in a hurry, Stockmann (Aleksanterinkatu 52) is always a safe bet. 104 Discover Helsinki Off the Centre The Marimekko factory outlet is located at Kirvesmiehenkatu 7 in Herttoniemi, which is two stops before Itäkeskus on the same metro route. Expect plenty of company – the place is a pilgrimage spot for Marimekko fans. The Arabia Museum and Gallery at Hämeentie 135 A, the location of the Arabia ceramics factory, has Arabia, Finlayson, Opa, and Pentik outlets. Discerning shoppers have a chance here to pick up some kitchenware, textiles, and ceramics finds at special prices. The Arabia Factory Outlet at Hämeentie 135 A also sells Fiskars products. The Fiskars name is probably best associated with the company’s distinctive orange-handled scissors, which have been manufactured for 40 years, with over 900 million sold worldwide. ••• HIT THE FLEA MARKETS! Hietalahdentori flea market, also known as Hietsu, is open from May to September Mon–Fri from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sat from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. A Helsinki classic, Hietsu is a great place for fun finds or just hanging out. It now has a serious conteder in Hakaniemen kirppis (at Hakaniemi Market Square, a popular Sunday flea market a few tram stops off the centre, and Konepajan Bruno, open on Saturdays and Sundays (Aleksis Kiven katu 17 A). Siivouspäivä (Cleaning Day) turns Helsinki into a big second-hand market, where anyone can sell or give away their old things. It takes place every May on the Saturday of the week 21, and every last Saturday of August. For more info, see siivouspaiva.com.

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87 80 toyshop Climate friendly wooden toys and fair trade products. www.tingeling.fi yrjönkatu 34, helsinki 74 CLIMBING FREE SKIING OUTDOORS www.camu.fi Vuorikatu 1, Helsinki Children’s Shop Le Bunuell Children’s Brand Clothing shop Le Bunuell is located in downtown of Helsinki. Brands are: Monnalisa, Il Gufo, Lili Gaufrette, Kenzo, Ver de Terre, Billieblush, Boss, Timberland and etc. Bulevardi 5, 00120 Helsinki Opening hours: Monday–Friday 10.15–17.00 Saturday 10.15–15.00 Tel. +358 45 801 4140, Email: info@lebunuell.fi www.lebunuell.fi

70 Photo: Niko Mitrunen ANNA RUOHONEN Paris Annankatu 13 00120 Helsinki www.annaruohonen.com tel: +358 (0)50 5550966 store@annaruohonen.com anna_ruohonen_paris ANNA.RUOHONEN.Paris

The oldest souvenir shop in Helsinki opposite the Temppeliaukio Church 71 • Knitwear • Finnish knives • Reindeer hides • Handicrafts • Målerås crystal • Souvenirs Since 1980 ANNENSOPPI OY / ANNE’S SHOP Fredrikinkatu 68, 00100 Helsinki, Tel. +358 9 445 823 OPEN EVERY DAY 9–18 (winter 9–17) www.annensoppi.com 73 Shop men&women Shop men&women Kauppakeskus Kamppi, 4th floor @aukiamenswear @aukiamenswear www.aukia.fi

78 Over 150 shops More than 40 restaurants and cafés Kamppi Shopping Center Urho Kekkosen katu 1 www.kamppi.fi Mon-Fri 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sat 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sun 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.

101 Enjoy the tasty treats of the restaurants, the quality services and the exceptional views over the city. Bar Cón • Bastardo • Beijing8 • Blue Lagoon • DATE + KALE • Fisken på disken • HOKU • La Torrefazione • Maxine • QHAIR • Restaurant Jord • Sandro • Story • Yoga Nordic Urho Kekkosen katu 1, Kamppi Center 5th floor www.kampinkortteli.fi

G A STRONO MY Smoking is a popular way of preparing fish in Finland. >>> T E X T BY J U H A TA N T T U ELINA MANNINEN / VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK Restaurants and dining A Cavalcade of Four Gastronomic Seasons Finnish cuisine reflects the country’s location between east and west. You can also taste the endless summer days and the long winters in what Finnish cuisine has to offer. This year, as Finland celebrates its 100 years of independence, Finnish cuisine is in the spotlight. The centenary has inspired both top professionals and home chefs to create traditional and completely new taste experiences. THOSE IN SEARCH of Finnish cuisine make their way to the market halls and market squares, which can be found in almost every locality. In Helsinki, the Market Square, or Kauppatori, is much used by the city’s residents, and many statesmen have savoured smoked Baltic herring bought fresh from fishing boats moored along the picturesque waterfront, or enjoyed their morning coffee with a fritter or a meat pie from a market stall. Lo c a l d e l i c a c i e s The four seasons and local specialities create a colourful display across the markets of Finland. In Tampere, for example, they sell hot black sausages, in Finnish mustamakkara and lingonberry sauce; in Turku, rusinamakkara, or raisin sausages, while in Pori in the autumn, fresh grilled river lampreys are sold in the market square. 112 Discover Helsinki

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G A STRONO MY Karjalanpiirakka, Karelian pasty, is Finland’s favourite snack. ELINA SIRPARANTA / VISIT FINLAND MEDIA BANK The traditions of pasty-making in Finland come from the east. In Savo, for instance, the kalakukko, a Finnish fish pasty, is a traditional dish, best bought fresh from the market squares in Kuopio. The kalakukko pasty is a plump round loaf of rye bread crust filled with slices of fish and pork, and baked slowly in an oven. Another popular variety of pasty is the Karelian rice pasty, karjalanpiirakka, which originates in Northern Karelia. A thin rye dough crust is filled with rice pudding, and served warm with butter. The shape of the pasty, as 114 Discover Helsinki a tourist once pointed out, resembles a moccasin! These pasties are hugely popular and sold in every supermarket. As many Finns will say, rye bread is for the locals what spinach is for Popeye. Rye bread has been recently chosen as the national food of Finland by almost 10,000 votes. The dark brown, mildly sour bread is traditionally made of sourdough to which only water, salt and flour are added. The traditional shapes are a loaf or a circular shape with a hole in the middle. Incidentally, the reason for the

111 hole in the middle of some loaves is that people used hang them to dry on poles that stretched across the ceiling. The mild sour tang typical of Finnish rye bread results from lactic fermentation and it has been used to flavour Finn crisps, thin and crispy rye breads baked with sourdough that are now a successful export product. In southwestern Finland and in the archipelago offshore, soursweet breads and malted breads are a speciality. There is also a black bread, called saaristolaisleipä; it is also found in northern parts of Finland, where blood may be added to produce a local variety of the recipe. Some Finnish breads are more like cakes. Pulla, a very popular Finnish bun, is usually enjoyed with coffee. Then there are cinnamon cakes, twists and rings (korvapuusti). And pies too filled with seasonal produce: in winter with curd cheese, in spring with rhubarb, in summer with fresh berries, and in autumn with apples. A va r i e t y o f f i s h d i s h e s A survey of a Finnish buffet table will give a fair impression of the variety and range of Finnish cuisine. Although quite similar to the Swedish smörgåsbord, the Finnish buffet has its own traditions, an important part of which is salted fish, including lightly salted whitefish and salmon, along with herring and Baltic herring in different kinds of sauces. The roe of whitefish and burbot is Finnish caviar at its best. Finns eat fish with boiled potatoes. A popular way of preparing fish is to smoke it. Salmon, whitefish and Baltic herring are both hot-smoked and cold-smoked, but it is popular to cook fish over an open fire too. A smoke bag, which is a Finnish idea, has come onto the market, making the smoking of fresh fish much easier. When eating salted or smoked herring people often have a small drink of Koskenkorva or Finlandia vodka – to toast your companions in Finnish you say kippis, the more Scandinavian way is to say skål. After the fish course, it is time to savour smoked reindeer or ham, meat in aspic, a beetroot salad called rosolli, and homemade cheese. A nice way to enjoy the Finnish buffet is on a sightseeing dinner cruise. You will find several companies offering a number of routes in the Market Square.

G A STRONO MY The most popular Finnish desserts are made of berries. C a s s e ro l e s a n d s t e w s The main course on the Finnish buffet-table is usually roasted meat. There are also different kinds of meat pots, such as karjalanpaisti, or Karelian stew, which is prepared using different kinds of meats, and simmered for a long time in the oven. The stew or hot pot is a Finnish classic and came second when the national food of Finland was recently chosen in a public call of votes. Casseroles of liver, macaroni, carrots or swedes are usually served as a side dish to the main meat platter. Other side dishes include pickled beetroot and cucumber, or lingonberry jam. Dishes from the Arctic are probably some of the most distinctive recipes to be enjoyed in Finland. After a hard day skiing on the fells of Lapland poronkäristys, or sautéed reindeer, takes some beating. It is a simple but very tasty dish served piping hot on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes, and enjoyed with a glass of chilled Lapin Kulta beer. This traditional dish is quite often seen on the menus of Helsinki’s many Finnish and Lapp restaurants. See the next article for more information on the restaurants. Charmed by berries The most popular Finnish desserts are made of berries. Many tourists have been charmed by the combination of cold, part-frozen cranberries covered with a hot caramel sauce. Another distinctively Finnish dessert from the north is juustoleipä, or bread cheese. It is usually warmed in the oven and topped with cloudberry jam. Finnish pancakes are characteristically small, and served with strawberry or raspberry jam. In summer, however, the lucky tourist may be invited to a party where they cook giant pancakes (muurinpohjaletut) in a large cast-iron pot outside in the garden. Food for all seasons Finnish cuisine also reflects the passage of the four seasons: cold, dark winters and long, warm summer days, the freshness of new spring growth and the abundant harvests of autumn combine in a rich variety of recipes and dishes. A real delicacy in January is burbot roe, and blini, a kind of pancake, topped with whipped or sour cream and chopped onion. During 116 Discover Helsinki the blini season, several restaurants run blini theme weeks that take place for several weeks during January and February, depending on the restaurant. Many people think a winter burbot soup is the best soup of the year, done with potatoes, melted butter and chopped onion. Incidentally, the addition of milk or cream is characteristic of many Finnish fish soup recipes. In February, it is very cold outside, so people eat rather heavy foods such as thick soups. Curiously, pea soup has traditionally been eaten on Thursdays, and this dish is typically followed by pancakes with jam. Pea soup and pancakes should also be eaten on Laskiaistiistai, or Shrove Tuesday. 5th February is Runeberg’s Day, which commemorates Finland’s national poet, Johan Ludwig Runeberg (1804–77). The Finnish flag flies across the land and the little Runeberg sponge cakes are sold in confectioneries. Joys of spring The arrival of Eastertide is a sign that the long winter is coming to its end. Mämmi, a malt-based pudding served with cream and sugar, is probably the most well-known. You either love it or hate it as it tends to be an acquired taste. Roast lamb is another traditional Easter dish, as are eggs and chicken. The Orthodox tradition brings sweet dishes such as pasha, kulitsa and baba, and children wait eagerly for Fazer’s Mignon chocolate eggs: a real eggshell filled with the finest chocolate. According to most Finns, May Day heralds the real arrival of spring. It is not just a public holiday it is the carnival day of the year throughout the country. With it comes Finnish doughnuts and tippaleipä, a pastry of sweet batter fried in hot oil. Sima, a type of mead is traditionally drunk on this day, and sparkling wines consumed enthusiastically. Sausages and potatoes The summer in Finland starts on 1st June. Most Finns leave their city apartments for the tranquility of the countryside and their summer cottages, which are usually situated by lakes. Barbecues are very popular, and smoked and grilled foods are prepared in the sunshine. Herbs,

94 free wifi such as dill and parsley, are picked fresh from the garden to add flavours to the summer recipes. The lakeside sauna is another very important part of the Finnish summer experience, and after sauna, it is time for hot grilled sausages and cool beers. By June it is possible to buy fresh home-grown strawberries and small new potatoes, delicious when served with a dab of butter and fresh chopped dill. Rhubarb pies are another favourite. The highlight of the summer season is the Midsummer holiday, celebrated at the last weekend of June. Midsummer Eve means bonfires on the shores of lakes and sea alike, and naturally eating too: sausage, pancakes and smoked fish among others. The gastronomic culmination of the summer is 21st July, when the crayfish season begins. Even Finns living abroad like to come to home at this time to join their friends at the crayfish parties held all over the country. Har vest food Harvest time in Finland comes in August and September. People catch Baltic herring and flatfish from the sea, hunters shoot wild ducks and elk, and the forest yields its rich crops of edible mushrooms, lingonberries and cranberries. A bit later, seaside towns bustle with activity as the fishermen bring their catches to market: pickled fish, salted fish, and Baltic herring. The roes of vendace, whitefish and Baltic herring appear on the stalls too. This red caviar is one of the best in the world. In December, Finns get together probably more often than during the other winter months. They share a hot Christmas toddy, glögi, which is a hot spicy blackcurrant beverage in the tradition of glühwein. In restaurants they serve different kinds of herrings, salmon, ham and casseroles and dried codfish, of course. This Christmas dish is eaten with a thick milky sauce, melted butter and potatoes, and spiced with pepper. A typical dessert at Christmas time is the joulutorttu, a star-shaped plum tart, and from kitchens everywhere there is the wonderful aroma of spicy ginger biscuits cooking in hot ovens. ••• helsinki helsinki | aleksanterinkatu 21 | +358 (0)9 4282 6888 /HARDROCK.HELSINKI @HRCHELSINKI WWW.HARDROCK.COM/HELSINKI

105 131 PATAÄSSÄ Open: Mon-Tue 18-03 Wed-Thu 18-04, Fri 15-04 Sat 09-04, Sun 09-03 STEAK HOUSE S I N C E 1 9 8 EXQUISITE WINE LIST LAID BACK ATMOSPHERE CHARCOAL GRILL FRIENDLY STAFF GROOVY MUSIC LUNCH mon-fri sat Snellmaninkatu 13 00170 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 626 076 E-mail: pataassa@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net 6 125 Erottaja Night EROTTAJA NIGHT Open: every night 20-04 Erottajankatu 15-17 00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 9 611 196 E-mail: erottaja@sijo.fi www.karaokebar.net 10.30-16.00 10.30-15.00 99 ETELÄESPLANADI 24, HELSINKI www.manhattansteakhouse.fi +358(0)9-611 217 mon-tue 10.30-23 wed-fri 10.30-24 sat 11-24 sun 12-23 SAME EXCELLENT TASTES ALSO IN  FORUM SHOPPING CENTER  0 FLOOR, FOOD COURT

正宗东北菜,环境优雅,全酒牌 TRADITIONAL NORTHERN CHINESE DISHES, ELEGANT ENVIRONMENT, FULLY ALCOHOL LICENSE 114 Töölönlahden puisto / Alvar Aallon katu 3 A, 00100 Helsinki • tel. +358 50 353 4599 • www.sunnybay.fi Opening hours: Monday to Friday 11–22, Saturday 12–22, Sunday 12–21 106 Original Japanese Ramen in Helsinki. Specialists in Ramen soup broth. Yliopistonkatu 5, Helsinki www.momotoko.com

109 E F I L E MAK ORFUL V A L F PIZZA HUT HELSINKI, Citykäytävä HELSINKI, Tennispalatsi HELSINKI, Munkkivuori ESPOO, Shopping centre AINOA pizzahut.fi

108 WELCOME TO THE BEST BURGER JOINT IN FINLAND! OWNED BY THE FIRST TOP CHEF WINNER OF FINLAND LOCATED IN THE CITY CENTER HELSINKI Lönnrotinkatu 13 TAMPERE Aleksanterinkatu 29 WWW.NAUGHTYBRGR .COM facebook.com/nbrgr @naughtybrgr

R E STAU RA NTS T E XT BY SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Hors d’oeuvres at Restaurant Klippan. >>> COMMA IMAGE OY / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Fresh and local – Restaurants in Helsinki Take a culinary trip around Helsinki and fall in love with the versality and pureness of Finnish cuisine. For a small city, Helsinki can offer a wide range of restaurants catering to every taste. IN THE LAST decade, Finland has seen the rise of New Nordic Kitchen that calls for a new take on the traditional local foods. The innovative new cuisine relies on the freshness and the pure, intense taste of Finnish top-quality ingredients. Helsinki takes food seriously. There is even a food strategist whose job is to promote food culture development in Helsinki. The global trend of preferring local food is tangible here, too. The best restaurants in Helsinki have taken a pride in Finnish ingredients and seasonal thinking. Using the best local raw materials, many top chefs blend traditional Finnish cuisine with French or Mediterranean influences. A few of the top restaurants in Helsinki have closed their doors during the past couple of years due to the current economical situation. The trend is now toward street food and relaxed, bistrostyle small restaurants. 122 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 123

124 Discover Helsinki

<<< Restaurant Juuri serves food that is proudly Finnish. H. FINER / RESTAURANT JUURI / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Stars and classics Helsinki’s top-rated restaurants offer high-quality food in stylish settings. Many of the best restaurants are located either in the city centre or a short walk off it. Especially during high season, you should make a reservation in the top restaurants. Main dishes will cost anything from 20 up to 70 or 80 euros. Ask (Vironkatu 8, www.restaurantask.com) is an intimate restaurant with 26 seats offering a daily set menu. They source their produce from small organic farmers and producers. Ask has now an easy-going little sister in Jord (Urho Kekkosen katu 1), a cheaper restaurant located on the 5th floor of the Kamppi shopping centre. Olo (Pohjoisesplanadi 5, www.olo-ravintola.fi) serves up New Nordic food. This owner of a Michelin star is renowned for seasonal thinking and good, even quality. Pricey, but tasty. Have a drink before dinner in the stylish inner courtyard. Savoy (Eteläesplanadi 14, www.ravintolasavoy.fi) is a classic established in 1937. It hasn’t rested on its laurels since then, either. The Sunday Times Travel Magazine has named Savoy the most romantic dining spot in Helsinki. The restaurant makes the finest healthy food in town and also serves signature dishes like vorschmack, a salty meat dish prepared out of minced meat, herring and onions. Juuri (Korkeavuorenkatu 27, www.juuri.fi) serves food that is proudly Finnish. The small restaurant is best known for its sapas, tasty Finnish tapas bites. The rustic yet polished interior makes a great setting for the food that is contemporary but remembers its roots. Demo (Uudenmaankatu 9–11, www.restaurantdemo.fi) has kept its Michelin star for ten years in a row. The bistro-styled smallish restaurant draws ideas from the French and Scandinavian cuisines and mixes it with the unexpected. St y l i s h a n d i n d e p e n d e n t The trend in Helsinki now calls for independently owned, chef-run bistros. Many of these restaurants are quite small, so a reservation is recommended. Kuurna (Meritullinkatu 6, www.kuurna.fi) serves well-made food without gimmicks. Every two weeks, there is a new menu with 3 starters and 3 main courses. The décor emphasizes the no-nonsense idea. This nice bistro is highly recommended. Muru (Fredrikinkatu 41, www.murudining.fi) is a tiny restaurant owned by Finnish celebrity chefs. It has been praised for its focus on quality ingredients. The menu changes daily and the service is friendly. Baskeri & Basso or BasBas (Tehtaankatu 27–29, www.basbas.fi) is one of the most interesting newcomers in Helsinki. They serve excellent Italian-inspired food in an urban setting. This is the place to come if you feel peckish in the late hours as their kitchen stays open until 2 a.m. Street food There is a food revolution going on in Helsinki. The streets of the city have been taken over by street food. Now there are food trucks and café bikes touring the city as well as several street food events – see boxed text on page 131. Fafa’s (www.fafas.fi) has several branches around Helsinki. Loved by vegetarians and meat-eaters as well, this fast-food restaurant is known for its delicious falafel. The most popular dish is pita with falafel and halloumi, ordered by 50% of the customers. Street Gastro (www.streetgastro.fi) used to be just a food truck owned by two ambitious top chefs. Now it is a chain of three restaurants serving delicious gourmet sandwiches. Döner Harju (Fleminginkatu 23, Kallio district) was created when its owners wanted Helsinki to have a place that served good kebab like they do in Berlin. The place has a cool minimalistic interior and is often packed with eager fans of kebab. A nice way to enjoy excellent fast food is to visit Hernesaarenranta, a summer patio, bar and party area that also serves street food ranging from sushi to Thai food, skewers, crepes and trendy bowls. Gourmet hamburgers are a big trend in Helsinki right now. Naughty BRGR (Lönnrotinkatu 13) offers a short menu of superb handmade Discover Helsinki 125

R E STAU RA NTS Ethnic food is one of the hottest trends right now. burgers and delicious sides. The stylish place is run by one of Finland’s top chefs. A short walk down the street from Naughty BRGR, you will find the Rosburger, the bearer of the title “The best burger in Helsinki” made by Roslund (Hietalahti market hall, Lönnrotinkatu 34). Ethnic flavours Ethnic food is one of the hottest trends right now and Helsinki has several upscale ethnic restaurants. You can grab a quick sushi in numerous small sushi places in Helsinki. For a more intimate dinner, try Kabuki (Lapinlahdenkatu 12, www.kabuki.fi), favoured by rock and media types. Another favourite is modern Raku Ya (Eteläranta 14) serving izakaya style Japanese food. Farang (Ainonkatu 3, www.farang.fi) is a modern Asian restaurant with a simple and stylish décor. The food is contemporary, fresh and innovative. Gaijin (Bulevardi 6, www.gaijin.fi) by the same owners offers modern North Asian flavours. Most of the dishes are meant to be shared. Both Gaijin and Farang have gained a Bib Gourmand rating for offering good food at moderate prices. If you crave for Mexican food, try Patrona (Annankatu 20) or Cholo (Lönnrotinkatu 9). Eatos Mexican Diner (Töölönlahdenkatu 3) is inspired by the classic street food style of Mexico City and has elevated it to a higher level. Lie Mi (Hämeentie 13 B, www.liemi.fi) is one of the hottest new names in the Helsinki ethnic food scene. Vietnamese food is still a rarity in Helsinki, but this humble place inside the Bar Siltanen offers authentic flavours. They also have Asian brunch on Saturdays. Vietnamese food is still a rarity in Helsinki, but Lie Mi (Hämeentie 13 B, www.liemi.fi) inside the Bar Siltanen offers authentic flavours. Brunch Brunch is a safe bet when you are hungry and craving for comfort food as it is relatively cheap, and you mostly get loads of hearty food. And, what’s more, it is a very family friendly way of eating as you can bring your kids along. One of the first to serve trendy brunch was Dylan (www.dylan.fi), now a chain of casual eateries. They have two very popular branches in central Helsinki, Dylan Milk (Porkkalankatu 5) and Block by Dylan (Eteläesplanadi 2) that serve only breakfast, lunch and brunch. Making a reservation for the brunch is highly recommended. The very stylish yet informal Block has nice views over the market and sea. Sandro (Kolmas linja 17 & Tehtaankatu 34, www.sandro.fi) is one of the most popular brunch places in Helsinki. The brunch is often fully booked weeks beforehand, so make a reservation. The serve excellent North African food and the atmosphere is relaxed. 126 Discover Helsinki

92 BEST-EVER STEAKS. TO ENJOY Eteläranta 14, Helsinki Tel.: +358 (0) 5041 98000 Shopping Centre Iso Omena, Espoo www.steak.fi Black Angus beef is the best in the world for preparing real steaks. Special technologies of cultivation and forage of bull-calves gives it exellent marbling and unique taste. Steaks are prepared in unique chartcoal furnaces called Josper, made in Spain Viru 22, Tallinn Tel.: +372 661 5518 www.steak.ee Discover Helsinki 127

112 in Helsinki In Dennis-restaurants you can enjoy authentic pizza, pasta, risotto and other italian-style dishes in a cozy and relaxed atmosphere. Benvenuto! Töölönkatu 27, 00260 Helsinki 020 7768487 Bulevardi 32, 00120 Helsinki 020 7768481 www.dennis.fi 128 Discover Helsinki Kansakoulukatu 1, 00100 Helsinki 020 7768482

The Finns are the greatest coffee drinkers in the world. For something a bit different, try Moko Market (Perämiehenkatu 10, www.moko.fi), a bohemian restaurant in a cool and rustic home décor shop. They serve brunch on Saturdays from 10 a.m. until noon. A reservation is not mandatory, but guarantees you a table. Ru s s i a n c u i s i n e Russian restaurants are great for a good meal in warm and cosy surroundings. The top picks are Šašlik with its private rooms and Russian troubadours (Neitsytpolku 12, www.asrestaurants.com) and Bellevue (Rahapajankatu 3, www.restaurantbellevue.com), the oldest Russian restaurant in Helsinki. Troikka (Caloniuksenkatu 3, www.troikka.fi) has been around since the 1920s. The restaurant has a unique atmosphere and serves classic Russian dishes like Chicken Kiev. Bystro Blinilä (Eteläranta 16, www.bystro.fi) is a newcomer among the Russian restaurants of Helsinki and quite a lot more modern and relaxed than the others. They make fine dining out of blinis - Slavic pancakes – and other traditional Russian dishes, and serve vodka by the gram in their edgy vodka bar. A few tram stops off the centre in the Kallio area, Blinit (Sturenkatu 9) is a café serving delicious and inexpensive Russian pancakes and soups. A taste of Finland Traditional Finnish food can be hard to find in Helsinki, as most of the fine dining places have French or Mediterranean influences. You can try the restaurants listed below for Finnish and Lapp favourites. Another good way to have a taste of Finnish delicacies is to try them at lunch time – a number of restaurants serve Finnish classics like pea soup, casseroles or meat balls for lunch. Savotta (Aleksanterinkatu 22, www.ravintolasavotta.fi) is located in the heart of tourist Helsinki by Senaatintori square. Decorated with old wood and serving its dishes on traditional Finnish china, everything matches the menu that includes lake fish, casseroles and game. If you are feeling particularly strong, try their tar-flavoured Sisu ice cream. Aino (Pohjoisesplanadi 21, www.ravintolaaino.fi) uses domestic raw materials and seeks inspiration from traditional Finnish cuisine. The decor is a bit more upmarket and classy than many of the competitors. Kamome (Pursimiehenkatu 12, www.kamome.fi) is populated all year round by hungry locals, media types and Japanese travellers, the latter drawn here because the Japanese movie Kamome Diner was set at the restaurant. This charmingly plain restaurant offers hearty, affordable food. Saaga (Bulevardi 34 B, www.ravintolasaaga.fi) serves Lapp food. The Lapp cuisine has been based on what the rough nature and short summer can offer; thus, the flavours are intense and the dishes are simple but alluring. The menu here includes reindeer, fish, bear and berries. Established some 20 years ago and thus the first Lapp restaurant in Helsinki, Lappi (Annankatu 22, www.lappires.com) gives you a taste of Northern flavours. You’ll find all the Lapp staples from salmon, reindeer and elk to cloudberries here in an interior imitating a log cottage. Kolme Kruunua (Liisankatu 5, www.kolmekruunua.fi), established in 1952, serves traditional Finnish food. Their signature dish is meatballs with mash, and the popular herring dish is also delicious. Konstan Möljä (Hietalahdenkatu 14, www.konstanmolja.fi) serves a Finnish buffet with traditional herring, reindeer and other fish and meat dishes. It is a great value at 19 €. Finnjävel (Eteläranta 16, www.finnjavel.fi) is a unique, profoundly Finnish fine dining restaurant. They use traditional, sometimes forgotten, Finnish cooking methods ambitiously and create something for the future. Your daily dose of coffee The Finns are the greatest coffee drinkers in the world, with about ten daily cups each. You can start your introduction to light-roasted Discover Helsinki 129

130 Discover Helsinki

<<< The island of Lonna has a nice café that is open daily. JUSSI HELLSTEN / VISIT HELSINKI MEDIA BANKS Finnish coffee in the middle of Helsinki at Pohjoisesplanadi, which gives home to several cafés. Try the constantly crowded Café Esplanad (Pohjoisesplanadi 37) for a huge cinnamon roll or a fresh salad. Café Aalto at Akateeminen Kirjakauppa (Keskuskatu 1) is a stylish and minimalistic café in a sedate bookstore setting. A great place for browsing through your purchases! Karl Fazer Café (Kluuvikatu 3) is a Helsinki classic established in 1891. Try the café-deli for a nice cup of coffee and hand-made chocolates or cakes made by their own bakery. If you would rather enjoy your coffee break after a good sight-seeing, head slightly off the city centre. While visiting the Sibelius Monument, take a short walk across the Sibelius park to Café Regatta (Merikannontie 10). A genuine, cosy atmosphere, a great place by the sea. And, they even pay you back 5 cents for every coffee refill. Naturally, the seaside has a huge pull in sunny summer days, and Kaivopuisto park is one of the most popular spots. Enjoy the view over the sea at Café Carusel (Merisatamanranta 10). It has outdoor tables crowded with locals and travellers alike trying to catch a few rays. What better way to spend a summer day doing absolutely nothing! From there, take a leisurely walk to the more trendy and upmarket Mattolaituri (Ehrenströmintie 3 A) that allures passers-by to enjoy champagne and coffee with a great view. Grab a drink and watch sailboats pass by. Or visit the traditional seaside café and restaurant Café Ursula (Ehrenströmintie 3). Café Ekberg (Bulevardi 9) is a classic. It is highly recommended for a coffee and a cake, but you can also try their lunch or breakfast. The place often gets quite busy with well-to-do older ladies. ••• FOOD FESTIVALS TAKE OVER THE STREETS Restaurant Day is an original Finnish idea, a food carnival where Dinner in the Sky is an international event that visits Helsinki for anybody can open a pop-up restaurant for a day. The restaurants can the fifth time this year. A table with 22 guests is suspended at be anywhere – at a park, at a private home or a workplace – and serve a height of 50 metres to enjoy a dinner cooked exclusively for anything from cakes to intestines, from organic specialities to ethnic them by local top chefs. The event takes place at Rautatientori, dishes. Restaurant Day is celebrated four times a year, in February, August 8th–13th. May, August and November. See www.restaurantday.org/en/ for It is not to be confused with the similarly named Dinner under more information. the stars (”Illallinen taivaan alla” in Finnish), a food event that Taste of Helsinki takes place in mid-June in Kansalaistori. This will spread throughout Finland. Part of Finland’s centenary food festival calls itself a boutique picnic where the best Finnish celebrations, the event will encourage people to hold a dinner restaurants prepare the food for you. This year the festival takes party and invite guests to a public space or their own home on place June 15 –18 . the last weekend in August. th th Discover Helsinki 131

95 We are big fans of plant based goodness and Finnish super foods. Therefore, we serve healthy meals such as Finnish Super Berry Bowls, Egg&Avocado toast, Quinoa Lunch Bowls and delicious Raw Bites. We are on a mission to make healthy living more accessible. Eat with purpose. Healthy thinking. Healthinki. Healthinki is a café and a movement built around healthy thinking. We believe that by offering nutrient filled foods you can nourish your body and mind and improve your overall wellbeing. WWW.HEALTHINKI.FI 104 WHEN HUNGRY AS THE DEVIL 98 OR THRISTY AS HELL Mon–Thu 10.30–02 Fri 10.30–04 Sat 14–04 Sun 14–02 Dagmarinkatu 2, +358 9 5807 7707, www.manala.fi @manalabotta kitzens@radissonblu.com +358 20 1234 800 www.kitzens.fi

93 Restaurant Kolmon3n offers modern high quality home cooking. Our dishes are created using clean flavours sourced from the best local and Scandinavian ingredients. We serve lunch Monday to Friday from 10.30am until 15.30pm. And á la carte Monday – Saturday from 16.30pm until 23.00pm. Step inside and enjoy dining with us in the heart of Kallio at Restaurant Kolmon3n. Sori Taproom and Eatery Helsinki • Vuorikatu 16, 00100 Helsinki www.soritaproom.com • +358 44 243 8404 varaus@soritaproom.com Our modern American styled kitchen with all favorite foods including the best smoked and grilled meats. We use a lot of organic and locally produced ingredients in order to bring you a prime gastronomic experience. Serious eats for not so serious people. Restaurant Kolmon3n Kolmas linja 11, 00530 Helsinki +358 44 775 3333 varaus@kolmon3n.com www.kolmon3n.com 100 Mon-Thu 11–24 Fri-Sat 11–02 (Sat, Brunch 11–15) Su 11–22 (Brunch 11–15) 103

97 Here you can enjoy the best flavours of the many-faceted Spanish food culture. Embark on a culinary trip to remember! Table reservations: Sokos Hotels Restaurant Sales Centre Tel. +358 20 1234 800, Mon–Fri 8am to 6pm www.sevilla.fi Founded in 1827 and rich in tradition, Kaisaniemi is the oldest restaurant and bar in Finland, frequented by Marshall Mannerheim and Jean Sibelius in their time. Kaisaniemi is located close to the heart of Helsinki in the Kaisaniemenpuisto park. We offer our guests the most impressive lunch in the town just for 15 euros price per person. Sokos Hotel Pasila, Maistraatinportti 3, Helsinki, Tel. +358 20 1234 613 102 91 Hietalahti Market Hall, Lönnrotinkatu 34, 00180 Helsinki Kaisaniementie 6, 00100 Helsinki, www.sinunjuhlasi.fi Information & table reservations: Tel. +358 9 632 223 myynti@ravintolakaisaniemi.fi

the Best Italian coffee... ciaocaffe.fi 89 and home made artisan ice cream winebar Italian caffé winebar @ Senate Square w/ Cathedral view Forum Mall Unioninkatu 27 / Aleksi 28 Pohjoisesplanadi 33 Mannerheimintie 20 Galleria Esplanad italian CIAO! Caffe coffee & gelato

115 90 Best original diner burgers in town! Citykäytävä, Saarisen piha, Kaivokatu 8, Helsinki ma–to 11–22, pe 11–23, la 12–23, su 13–22 www. ravintola.fi WAYNE’S COFFEE, FORUM SIMONKATU 8 WAYNE’S COFFEE, MYYRMANNI ISKOSKUJA 3 A 1 WAYNE’S COFFEE, LÖNKKA LÖNNROTINKATU 11 WAYNE’S COFFEE, LAUTTIS LAUTTASAARENTIE 28–30 WWW.WAYNESCOFFEE.FI 110 113 BEST STEAKS in town Korkeavuorenkatu 34, Helsinki ma–to klo 17–23, pe klo 17–00, la klo 14–00, su klo 15–22 Rikhardinkatu 4, Helsinki • ma–to 16–23, pe–la 15–24, su 16–23 Purpur.fi

96 Yeti Nepal – The Nepalese restaurant at Ruoholahti 116 Welcome to enjoy and feel yourselves comfortable to have an original Nepalese meal in a great atmosphere! YETI NEPAL Nepalese Cuisine Itämerenkatu 12, 00180, Helsinki, Tel/fax 09-6933010 Mon-Thu 10.30-22, Fri 10.30-23, Sat 12-23, Sun 12-22 www.yetinepal.fi 107 88 Restaurant Mount Kailash team is delighted to bring you an eclectic range of authentic Nepali cuisine. Our menu offers you a choice of contemporary Nepalese dining, along with Chicken, Lamb, regional seafood and vegetarian dishes. Moreover, Naan breads and various Tandoor dishes have also been included in our menu. RESTAURANT MOUNT KAILASH Tyynenmerenkatu 5, 00220 Helsinki Email: mountkailash.nepal@gmail.com Table reservations: Tel. +358 44 449 6050 www.mountkailash.fi

N IG H T L I F E T E XT BY A R I L AH DE N MÄK I & SA A RA KE KÄLÄI N E N Helsinki’s bars have a unique groove to them. Go and explore. >>> JUSSI HELLSTEN / CITY OF HELSINKI MEDIA BANK Bars and nightlife and no dress-codes Helsinki has a lively bar culture catering for every taste. The nightlife warms up for the weekend with eager partyers swinging from bar to bar. BARS IN HELSINKI open their doors at 9 a.m. or later; the licensing laws prohibit anything of an alcoholic nature being sold before then, so early liquid breakfasts are out. At the other end of the dial, the latest of the nightclubs send their customers packing by 4 a.m. If you are out late in Helsinki, particularly at the weekend, you can prepare yourself for some queuing, both to get in for a drink and to secure a taxi-ride home. However, the good news is that Helsinki is nearly free of the sort of places that you find across Europe from Stockholm southwards – the ones that pay strict attention to the attire of their prospective customers. Just as long as you don’t turn up in a jogger’s tracksuit and drip sweat all over the doorman’s shoes, the doors to a Helsinki restaurant will open to you. How long you may have to wait rather depends on the day you choose. Going out is weighted towards the weekends. On Friday and Saturday nights the bars and clubs are jumping, but from Sunday through Tuesday you might wonder how it is possible to operate a capital city with so few people to work with. On Wednesday and Thursday things start warming up again for the weekend. Even at the weekends, the Helsinki locals do not tend to stay long cooling their heels in the same place. The custom is to swing from bar to bar in the course of an evening, and to wind up at a nightclub in the small hours. As Helsinki is a small city, many of the bars are within a walking distance from each other. Here are some of the best places, among them cocktail bars, music venues and some Helsinki specialities. 138 Discover Helsinki

Discover Helsinki 139

N IG HTLI F E Finland is the heavy metal capital of the world, as the saying goes. Cocktails Finns have had a reputation of hard drinking. The nation’s favourite drinks have been beer and vodka, but there is a rapidly growing cocktail culture with a handful of bars that take cocktails seriously. One of the most famous cocktail bars in Helsinki is award-winning A21 (Annankatu 21), a pioneer in the city’s cocktail scene. A21 serves innovative cocktails and invites you to experience pure tastes. Sling In (Mikonkatu 8) is one of the oldest cocktail bars in Helsinki, having started in 1999 when cocktail culture was still young in Finland. The casual bar offers an exhaustive list of cocktails while rock music plays. Sling In is located inside a small mall and can be a bit hard to find. Navy Jerry’s (Hietaniemenkatu 2) have a love of rum. This navalthemed 1950s bar is often boisterous with a packed dance floor. It is not just a bar, but a nightclub and restaurant as well. So if you feel a bit peckish after all the cocktail-tasting, have a little something from their kitchen. Liberty or Death (Erottajankatu 5) is a small and dark bar that serves only cocktails. The ambitious and skilled bartenders can create you the most amazing drinks. The dimly lit tiny bar has an exclusive feel to it. Grotesk Bar (Ludviginkatu 10), a few doors away from Liberty or Death, is all about properly made cocktails with an easy-to-approach atmosphere. They are also specialists in hand-cut clear ice and they have a thing for gin. Trillby and Chadwick (Katariinankatu) is a bar with first-rate service and great cocktails – and a bit of mystery. It is a “secret” bar that does not reveal even its exact address, although the street it is on is very short. Decorated like an English gentleman’s club, this is a place to sit down and enjoy a top-notch drink. Beer and more beer Finland used to have – basically – one beer. All the breweries used to make the same type of lager with almost no alternatives. Now, luckily, the trend has changed and Finns have a growing interest in 140 Discover Helsinki beer. There are several new beer-serving bars with a large selection of craft beers. Bier Bier (Erottajankatu 13) aims to make beer-tasting easy. The cosy and dark bar places emphasis on European craft beers. There is also a selection of Finnish beers. Bryggeri Helsinki (Sofiankatu 2) is located conveniently next to the Helsinki Cathedral where the tourist buses stop, so you can refresh yourself after a good day’s sightseeing. The brewery restaurant serves also pub food and a la carte dishes. You can watch the brewmaster at work while enjoying your beer. Brewdog (Tarkk’ampujankatu 20) was born when the Scottish Brewdog brewery asked their blog followers where should they open their next bar. The answer was Helsinki and this bar with an industrial vibe to it. They have 20 taps and feature some of the best Finnish beers alongside their own. Tommyknocker Craft Beer Bar (Iso Roobertinkatu 13) is a stylish small bar named after an American microbrewery. It is the first branded American craft beer bar in Finland. They have an impressive selection of 60+ American craft beers and some of the best American-style Finnish beers. Helsinki Rock City Finland is the heavy metal capital of the world, as the saying goes, and Helsinki is a rock city with lots of rock bars to keep you rocking all night long. Loose (Annankatu 21) simply reeks of rock-cred. This is where everybody from the local rock scene loves to hang out. The bar has live gigs and hosts popular parties and clubs, and the jukebox carries a broad selection from Iggy Pop (who has, actually, visited the bar) to Tom Waits, via The Who, James Brown, and local talent. Enough said. Bar Bäkkäri (Pohjoinen Rautatienkatu 21) is a rock bar with some serious attitude. Bäkkäri (“Backstage” in Finnish) has a live music venue upstairs and a bar with a hard rock vibe downstairs. They have lots of rock memorabilia, screens playing music videos and all kinds of theme nights.

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133 128 130 SHKR Fredrikinkatu 65 00100 Helsinki MONDAY–SATURDAY 16–02 SUNDAY 18–02 WWW.SHKR.FI

Located centrally next to the main railway station, On the Rocks (Mikonkatu 15) is a two-story rock bar and live music club with several live music nights every week. Helsinki’s biggest and ballsiest rock-club Tavastia gets the hottest acts that haven’t gone onto the arena circuit, and at the smaller, steamy Semifinal in the same block at Urho Kekkosen katu 4–6 you can catch promising artists on the way up and the best names in the underground scene. Outside these rock venues, live music can be heard at Korjaamo Culture Factory (Töölönkatu 51 A–B), a venue for smaller bands from rock to jazzy soul. Kuudes Linja is an underground club (Hämeentie 13) with DJs and live acts playing anything from electronica to reggae. They even have children’s disco matinees! Nosturi (Telakkakatu 8) is operated by the local live music association. The venue has a capacity of 900 and offers a broad variety of music genres from black metal to hip hop. Looking for something special? …w here the hip people are? Siltanen (Hämeentie 13) is a bar/club/restaurant with live music and DJs, a big terrace for sunny summer days and a dance floor for wild partying with cool arty types. Steam Hellsinki (Olavinkatu 1) is the first steampunk bar in Helsinki, with danceable electro swing tunes and a great love for detail from the zeppelin-shaped bar to lots of mechanical instruments. They serve great drinks and have over 40 gins from which to choose. of Tom of Finland has been recently seen in a set of stamps published by the Finnish post, and in a textile product range by Finlayson, and his life and work were depicted in a recent film, also named Tom of Finland. Hercules (Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 21 B) is a popular gay night club in the city centre, catering mostly to men over 30. The partying can often get rowdy, fun and outrageous. Dtm (Mannerheimintie 6) is one of the largest nightclubs in the Nordic countries. The crowd is often younger than at Hercules, and the weekend nights can be even more frisky and boisterous. …great views? A must meeting-point in good weather is up at the Ateljee Bar (Kalevankatu 5). You can find this place by heading for the Sokos Hotel Torni (the sort of mini-skyscraper-looking building in the dead centre of town) and taking the elevator up to the 12th floor and the tiny spiral staircase one more level. There’s art on the walls but the main event is outside: the view from here over the city centre is great, and on warm days they open up the rooftop terrace. The Clarion Hotel (Tyynenmerenkatu 2) is one of the tallest buildings in Helsinki, and at the top of one of its towers there is a bar called Skybar open to everybody. You can enjoy the astonishing view while having a drink or a small dish. If you feel restless just sitting in one bar, but a pub crawl is too much for you, Spårakoff the pub tram is the answer. You can order a drink and enjoy Helsinki’s best sights for an hour. You can hop on the tram at five marked stops: at the central railway station, Linnanmäki, Opera House and Market Square tram stops. …w atching a movie while having a drink? Riviera (Harjukatu 2) is movie theatre with a bar, or a bar with an excellent movie screen. They have a short snacks menu and a comprehensive drink list. …the gay scene? For a small city, Helsinki has an active gay scene. Many of the gay bars are located centrally. Helsinki is quite GLBT-friendly; the city even has a “Gay Friendly Helsinki” network that brings together companies providing quality services for GLBT visitors. One of the biggest gay icons, Tom of Finland, originated from Helsinki. The art …par tying hard the Finnish way? What happens, if you combine Octoberfest and the Finnish way of celebrating Mayday eve (i.e drinking and being merry)? RymyEetu (Erottajankatu 15-17) is a bar where singing is not only allowed but even encouraged. There are also brass bands and waitresses sporting German milk-maid type clothes. If that’s a bit too much for you, Raffaello (Aleksanterinkatu 46) and its neighbouring bars and restaurants have outdoor tables along the Wanha Kauppakuja courtyard. Known as Mummotunneli, “the Granny Tunnel”, this is a hot party hub for the well-to-do over-30 set. ••• Discover Helsinki 143

117 Welcome to ALCATRAZ EROTIC POLE DANCE • DJ • VIP-LOUNGE OPEN EVERY DAY 20.00-04.00 Eerikinkatu 3, Helsinki, info@alcatraz.fi

SO M E N IG HT C LU B S I N H E L S I N K I Apollo Live Club Located in a former movie theatre in the heart of the city, Apollo has live entertainment three or four nights a week. You can enjoy live music, theatre performances and stand-up comedy there. Kaarle XII If you are looking for the place to be on a weekday night, Thursdays at Kaarle XII are hugely popular year after year. The bar has been on the ‘Best place to party’ top 5 list of the City magazine for nearly 20 years. Mannerheimintie 16, city centre Open: Fri–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.apolloliveclub.fi/helsinki Kasarmikatu 40, city centre Open: Thur–Sat 8 p.m.–4 a.m. www.kaarle.fi The Circus Open to the public mainly in the weekends, this large night club offers club nights and live artists. For those who feel like singing, The Circus features enclosed karaoke cubicles. Kaivohuone Located in the Kaivopuisto park, this summer restaurant has seven bars inside and over 400 seats outdoors. Built as a spa in the 1830’s, this grand old lady has recently been restored to its former glory. Skohan Skohan, opened in 2017, is the latest addition to Helsinki’s nightlife. This large club for 1,000 party-goers has a heated terrace that is open all year round. It is located in the heart of the city opposite the railway station. Iso Puistotie 1, Kaivopuisto Club open From May to August: Wed, Fri, Sat www.kaivohuone.fi Keskuskatu 8, 3rd floor, city centre Open: Wed–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.skohan.fi Lady Moon A small, and intimate club with a highly qualified staff to quench the thirst of cocktail craving partiers. Music is versatile to please the adult customer. Tavastia The most legendary rock music club in Finland. Live gigs and popular Saturday disco. Salomonkatu 1–3, Kamppi www.thecircus.fi Club Capital Club Capital boasts the largest dance floor in Helsinki. With EDM and hiphop, Capital attracts a youngish crowd. You can book a table beforehand, if you’d prefer enjoying the vibes sitting down. Fredrikinkatu 51, city centre Open: Fri–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.clubcapital.fi Kaivokatu 12, city centre Open: Every day 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.ladymoon.fi Milliklubi The latest R&B and dance hits fill the dance floor. The bar’s specialties include Blackjack and Roulette tables for entertainment. Party every night 10 p.m.–4 a.m.! Kaivokatu 12, city centre Open: Every day 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.milliklubi.fi Urho Kekkosen katu 6, city centre Open: Open on gig days Sun–Thu 8 pm–1 am, Fri–Sat 8 pm–4 am (unless otherwise indicated) Tel. +358 (0)9 774 67 4200 www.tavastiaklubi.fi Dtm Dtm is the largest gay night club in Scandinavia. They host parties from club nights to drag shows. Frequented by local celebrities, straight couples and gays alike, this is one of the hottest spots in town for the open-minded. Maxine Maxine has nice views over Helsinki. Have a drink on their heated terrace and enjoy a summer night in Helsinki! The club has three separate rooms called the living room, hall and library. Teatteri Night Club Teatteri is one of the oldest restaurant-nights clubs in Helsinki. Downstairs there is a restaurant and a lounge-pub, upstairs a night club and a very popular VIP-space. Mannerheimintie 6 B, city centre Open: Mon–Sun 9 p.m.–4 a.m. Tel. +358 (0)10 841 6969 www.dtm.fi Kamppi Shopping Centre, 6th floor, city centre Open: Fri–Sun 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.maxine.fi Pohjoisesplanadi 2, city centre Club Open: Thur–Sat 10 p.m.–4 a.m. www.teatteri.fi

04 06 07 HELSINKI BY NIGHT What to do in Finland’s capital in the nighttime? Follow the map and visit the best spots in Helsinki as night begins to fall. Sit down on the Helsinki Cathedral stairs and watch the city’s hustle and bustle. Admire the maritime landscape from the Katajanokka cliffs below the Uspenski Cathedral. Esplanade park is located right in the city centre, and it is a popular place for shopping and spending time. It is best to arrive with your own picnic blanket and snacks in the evening. Hop on a ferry from Kauppatori market square towards one of UNESCO’s world heritage sites, the historic Suomenlinna fortress. During the brief journey you can admire the nightly landscape of Helsinki on the ferry deck. Sit down on the soft sand of Hietaniemi beach and admire the summertime evening sun near the city’s active nightlife. While you’re there, why not go for a refreshing nighttime swim? Apollo Live Club is located in the middle of Helsinki in shopping centre Forum. The club is located in an old cinema that has been renovated into one of the nicest nightclubs in the Nordic countries. Located on the sixth floor of Kamppi shopping centre, Maxine has great views of Helsinki at night. The club has large windows and a terrace that is open all year round. Visit Railway Square, the central spot of Helsinki. Especially on weekends the Railway Square is bustling with people headed for a night out. Baarikärpänen is one of the classics of Helsinki nightlife. Evenings at the club, drinking games, theme parties—at Baarikärpänen every night is special. Bar Bäkkäri never stops rocking! Open every night of the week, for all rock music fans. Glitter, sparkle, celebration, and staggering parties! Club Capital is a massive nightclub experience that stands out from a normal evening at the club, and it caters to every need possible. Kaivohuone is a charismatic wooden villa in the middle of Kaivopuisto park. In the evening this beautiful building turns into the most atmospheric nightclub in town.

nne atu Ma elinink Me c h ti imin rhe 06 ta tie äm H äs te nr an intie im rhe nne sranta Unioninkatu Kaivokatu 12 ok ist tu ka tin u at er Alb ink rik atLu Merik tu ka Pohjoisesplanadi Pu d Fre Porkkalankatu Kruununhaka u kat rgin ebe Run Ullanlinna Kamppi Munkkisaari rn Eläintarhantie Tehtaankatu Jätkäsaari ee n ti e tie Kallio Itäväylä Ma Punavuori Hietaniemi lsin He Töölönlahti tu lininka Meche Ruoholahti u at k gin Sö Bu katu di ar lev na Katajanokka va ka tu Kalasatama Ka tin ro n ön Pohjoi u Porkkalankatu ot i n k a tu H e ls ing atu kat sen Lö Pohjoisesplanadi atu ink r nn 02 Wall inin 11 k eliu u t Top ka ikin dr tu ka Fre tin er Alb 09 10 03 Vauh ti Kamppi Pohjois 01 Kaivokatu 07 Unioninkatu 08 ranta Kruununhaka u kat rgin Hietaniemi e ebe Run 05 Kaivopuisto na Katajanokka va ka tu Ka di ar lev Bu Ruoholahti Punavuori Ullanlinna Jätkäsaari Munkkisaari Pu ist ok atu Tehtaankatu atu Kaivopuisto Merik 04 01 Helsinki Cathedral Unioninkatu 29 02 Uspenski Cathedral Kanavakatu 1 03 Esplanade park Pohjoisesplanadi 04 Suomenlinna Suomenlinna 05 Hietaniemi beach Hiekkarannantie 11 06 Apollo Live Club Mannerheimintie 16 07 Maxine Urho Kekkosen katu 1A 08 Railway Square Rautatietori 09 Baarikärpänen Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 21 10 Bar Bäkkäri Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 21 11 Club Capital Fredrikinkatu 51 12 Kaivohuone Iso Puistotie 1 Suomenlinna Lemmenlampi L

TH E S E E XCLU S IVE H OT E L S P ROV I DE T H I S B OO K Airport Hotel Pilotti Veromäentie 1 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 329 4800 hotel.pilotti@choicehotels.fi www.hotellipilotti.fi Hilton Airport Lentäjänkuja 1 FIN-01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)9 73220 helsinkivantaa.airport@hilton.com www.1hilton.com Hotelli Cumulus Kaisaniemi Kaisaniemenkatu 7 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 107 kaisaniemi.cumulus@restel.fi www.cumulus.fi Hotel Indigo Helsinki – Boulevard Bulevardi 26 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 105 helsinki-boulevard.indigo@restel.fi helsinki-boulevard.hotelindigo.com Break Sokos Hotel Flamingo Tasetie 8 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 605 flamingo.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Hilton Helsinki Kalastajatorppa Kalastajatorpantie 1 FIN-00330 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 45811 helsinkikalastajatorppa@hilton.com www.1hilton.com Hotelli Cumulus Kallio Läntinen Brahenkatu 2 FIN-00510 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 109 kallio.cumulus@restel.fi www.cumulus.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki-Vantaa Airport Rälssitie 2 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)200 48111 airport.holidayinn@restel.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn Clarion Tyynenmerenkatu 2 FIN-00220 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 850 3820 cl.helsinki@choice.fi www.nordicchoicehotels.fi/Clarion/Helsinki Hotel Anna Annankatu 1 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 616 621 info@hotelanna.fi www.hotelanna.fi Hotelli Cumulus Meilahti Tukholmankatu 2 FIN-00250 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 146 meilahti.cumulus@restel.fi www.cumulus.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki – messukeskus Messuaukio 1 FIN-00520 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48102 helsinki.holidayinn@restel.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotelli Helsinki Kluuvi Kluuvikatu 4 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4400 kluuvi@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Hotel Arthur Vuorikatu 19 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 173 441 reception@hotelarthur.fi www.hotelarthur.fi Hotelli Fabian Fabianinkatu 7 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2820 sales@hotelcfabian.com www.hotelfabian.com Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre Elielinaukio 5 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48103 helsinki.hihcc@restel.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotel Airport Helsinki-Vantaa Airport, Terminal T2 FIN-01530 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)10 3444 600 airport@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Hotel Crowne Plaza Helsinki Mannerheimintie 50 FIN-00260 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48101 helsinki.cph@restel.fi www.crowneplaza-helsinki.fi Hotelli Haven Unioninkatu 17 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2840 sales@hotelhaven.fi www.hotelhaven.fi Holiday Inn Helsinki West Ruoholahti Sulhasenkuja 3 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48104 helsinki.hihcw@restel.fi www.restel.fi/holidayinn GLO Hotelli Helsinki Art Lönnrotinkatu 29 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4100 art@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Hotelli Cumulus Airport Robert Huberin tie 6 FIN-01510 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)200 48 112 vantaa.cumulus@restel.fi www.cumulus.fi Hotelli Lilla Roberts Pieni Roobertinkatu 1-3 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0) 9 6824 2860 sales@lillaroberts.com www.lillaroberts.com Hotel Klaus K Bulevardi 2 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 770 4700 rooms@klauskhotel.com www.klauskhotel.com GLO Hotelli Sello Leppävaarankatu 1 FIN-02600 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)10 344 4200 sello@glohotels.fi www.glohotels.fi Hotelli Cumulus Hakaniemi Siltasaarenkatu 14 FIN-00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 108 hakaniemi.cumulus@restel.fi www.cumulus.fi Hotel Helka Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu 23 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 613 580 reservations@helka.fi www.helka.fi Hotel Kämp Pohjoisesplanadi 29 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 576 111 hotelkamp@hotelkamp.fi www.hotelkamp.fi 148 Discover Helsinki

Hotel Seurahuone Helsinki Kaivokatu 12 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)200 48 106 helsinki.seurahuone@restel.fi www.hotelliseurahuone.fi Radisson Blu Seaside Hotel Ruoholahdenranta 3 FIN-00180 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 707 info.seaside.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Solo Sokos Hotel Torni Yrjönkatu 26 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 604 torni.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Vantaa Hertaksentie 2 FIN-01300 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 618 hotelvantaa.vantaa@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Hotelli AVA Karstulantie 6 FIN-00550 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 774 751 varaukset@ava.fi www.ava.fi Scandic Espoo Nihtisillantie 1 FIN-02630 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)9 43 520 espoo@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Albert Albertinkatu 30 FIN-00120 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 638 albert.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Primehotels Hotel Katajanokka Merikasarminkatu 1 a FI-00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 686 450 sales@hotelkatajanokka.fi www.bwkatajanokka.fi Hämeenkylän kartano Juustenintie 1 FIN-01630 Vantaa Tel. +358 (0)10 540 8350 hameenkylankartano@sodexo.fi www.hameenkylankartano.fi Scandic Grand Marina Katajanokanlaituri 7 FIN-00160 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 16 661 grandmarina@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Helsinki Kluuvikatu 8 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 601 hotelhelsinki.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Primehotels Hotel Rantapuisto Furuborginkatu 3 FIN-00980 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 319 11 sales@rantapuisto.fi www.rantapuisto.fi Next Hotel Helsinki Rivoli Jardin Kasarmikatu 40 FIN-00130 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 681 500 rivoli.jardin@rivoli.fi www.nexthotels.fi Scandic Marski Mannerheimintie 10 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 68 061 marski@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Pasila Maistraatinportti 3 FIN-00240 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 613 pasila.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Radisson Blu Aleksanteri Hotel Albertinkatu 34 FIN-00180 Helsinki +358 (0)20 123 4643 info.aleksanteri.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Paasi Paasivuorenkatu 5 B FIN-00530 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 231 1700 paasi@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Presidentti Eteläinen Rautatiekatu 4 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 608 presidentti.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel Mikonkatu 23 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 703 info.plaza.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Park Helsinki Mannerheimintie 46 FIN-00260 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 47 371 parkhelsinki@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Tapiola Garden Tapionaukio 3 FIN-02100 Espoo Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 616 tapiolagarden.espoo@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Runeberginkatu 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 701 info.royal.helsinki@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/fi Scandic Simonkenttä Simonkatu 9 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)9 68 380 simonkentta@scandichotels.com www.scandichotels.fi Original Sokos Hotel Vaakuna, Helsinki Asema-aukio 2 FIN-00100 Helsinki Tel. +358 (0)20 1234 610 vaakuna.helsinki@sokoshotels.fi www.sokoshotels.fi A LSO AVAI L AB LE Viking Line M/S Gabriella M/S Mariella Viking XPRS Tallink Superstar Star Silja Line Serenade Symphony Eckerö Line M/S Finlandia Linda Line Karolin Merilin Discover Helsinki 149

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LI ST OF S IG H TS, S H O P PI NG A N D R E STA U RA N TS I N H E L S I N K I The number on the map corresponds to the number in the advertisement. SIGHTS & INFORMATION 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 Central Railway Station Eckerö Line Terminal Esplanade Park Finlandia Hall Fortress of Suomenlinna / Viaborg Helsinki Cathedral Helsinki City Tourist Office Helsinki Music Centre Hertz Rent a Car Hop On Hop Off busses Hämeenkylä Manor Hotel & Conference Kaivopuisto / Well Park Kamppi Chapel of Silence Linda Line Terminal Main Bus Station & Kamppi Center Main Post Office & Travel Clinic Market Square National Park Nuuksio Old Market Hall Olympic Stadium Parliament House Pikkujätti Medical Center (childen and youth) Presidential Palace Rastila camping Royal Line Terminal Senate Square Sibelius Park & Monument Silja Line Terminal St. Peter Line Terminal Tallink Terminal Tavex currency exchange Temppeliaukio Church Tixi Travel Uspenski Cathedral Viking Line Terminal ACTIVITIES & AMUSEMENT 36 Adventure Park Korkee 37 Allas Sea Pool 38 Finnish National Opera 39 Finnish Science Center Heureka (Vantaa) 40 Flamingo Spa (Vantaa) 41 Float & relax 42 Flytour XD Helsinki 43 Helsinki Zoo Korkeasaari 44 Hernesaarenranta event center 45 Hohtogolf West Coast Helsinki & Espoo 46 Linnanmäki Amusement Park 47 Löyly design sauna & restaurant 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 = Layar activity National Theatre Rush trampoline park Helsinki & Vantaa Sea Life Helsinki Serena (Espoo) Sky Xperience SkyWheel Helsinki Svenska Teatern Swimming Stadium Tropicario MUSEUMS 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 Amos Anderson Art Museum Ateneum Art Museum Design Museum EMMA - Espoo Museum of Modern Art (Espoo) Finnish Aviation Museum (Vantaa) Helsinki City Museum Mannerheim Museum Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma Museum of Finnish Architecture Sinebrychoff Art Museum Tennis Palace: HAM Helsinki Art Museum SHOPPING ETC. 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 Aarikka Boutique Alain Mikli / Espa Eyewear Anne Ruohonen Paris Anne´s souvenir shop Artek Aukia Helsinki Camu E. Lindroos Forum Shopping Center Glass Gallery Mafka & Alakoski Kamppi Shopping Center Kankurin Tupa Le Bunuell children´s shop Lumi Mikonkulta Minna Parikka Newbie Pii Poo Lego Store Shop Helsinki / Mikebon Tingelin Toyshop RESTAURANTS & CAFÉS 88 Base Camp (Nepalese) 89 Ciao! Caffe (Italian icecream bar) 90 Classic American Dinner (Burgers) 91 Fat Ramen (Asian noodles bar) 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 Goodwin (Steaks) Grotesk (Steaks) Hard Rock Cafe (American) Healthinki (Healthy meals) Himshikhar (Nepalese) Kaisaniemi (Finnish) Kitzens (Finnish) Kolme Kruunua (Finnish) Kolmon3n (Finnish) Kortteli restaurant world Sevilla (Spanish) Sori Taproom (American) Manala (International) Manhattan Steak House (Steaks) Momo Toko (Japanese Ramen) Mount Kailash (Nepalese) Naughty BRGR (Burgers) Pizza Hut (Pizzas) Purpur (Georgian) Restaurant Sunn (Finnish) Ristorante Dennis Stefan´s Steakhouse (Steaks) Sunny Bay (Chinese) Wayne´s Coffee (Café) Yeti Nepal (Nepalese) BARS & NIGHTLIFE 117 Alcatraz (Erotic) 118 Apollo Live Club (Live music) 119 Ateljée Bar (Great view) 120 Baarikärpänen (Club) 121 Bar Bäkkäri (Rock club) 122 Casino Helsinki 123 Club Capital (Nightclub) 124 DTM (Gay friendly nightclub) 125 Erottaja Night (Karaoke) 126 Kaarle XII (Nightclub) 127 Kaivohuone (Summer restaurant) 128 Lady Moon (Nightclub) 129 Maxine (Nightclub with a great view) 130 Milliklubi (Nightclub) 131 Pataässä (Karaoke) 132 Pressa (Nightclub) 133 SHKR (Cocktails) 134 Skohan (Nightclub) 135 Storyville (Jazz club) 136 Tavastia (Rock club) 137 Teatteri (Restaurant & nightclub)

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